Christmas in Berlin with Manu Rosier – and six new Red Stars

Berlin Ambassador and White Star Project Manager, Emmanuel Rosier.
Rachel Fellows
Published 19-December-2024
Interview / Berlin

Berlin’s Christmas markets are looking picture perfect right now. If you’re visiting the German capital, upgrade your glühwein by visiting one of our Red Star wine destinations – luckily, Berlin Ambassador Emmanuel (‘Manu’) Rosier has just added six more to our guide.

“Berlin’s wine scene is as eclectic and vibrant as the city itself,” says Manu Rosier. “It’s a cultural melting pot that blends tradition with experimentation, creating a unique and inclusive wine environment. From natural wine bars to cutting-edge trends in sustainability and education, Berlin’s wine culture is a testament to its innovative spirit.”

A Beaujolais native, sommelier and hospitality consultant Manu has lived in Berlin since 2015 (except for a short spell in Paris, in 2022). He has extensive experience across Europe and, when not reporting from his home for Star Wine List, he also looks after our White Star programme.

Thank you for the update! How did you go about selecting these Red Star venues?

“What makes the selected venues exceptional is their ability to balance innovation with approachability. Thoughtfully-curated wine lists, knowledgeable staff, and a unique concept or ambiance are key to standing out. I see very different concepts on these wine lists, all more impressive than the next.”

What’s so special about Berlin’s wine scene?

“What sets Berlin apart from the rest of Germany is its casual yet sophisticated approach to wine. Here, natural wines have taken centre stage, reflecting the city’s ethos of authenticity and sustainability. Venues like Jaja, Hallmann & Klee and Otto in Neukölln lead the charge, showcasing biodynamic producers and championing low-intervention wines.”

What are your personal favourites from Star Wine List’s Berlin guide?

“Popular restaurants like Tim Raue, Grill Royal and Rutz have amazing wine lists, some of the best rated in the republic. Yet, smaller places and wine lists like Anabelas, Bar Schwips and Matthias are very unique, and attractive.”

Are there any wine trends emerging across the city?

“Low-intervention wines have become a hallmark of Berlin’s wine bars, reflecting a shift toward sustainability and authenticity. Berlin is the spiritual home of the RAW Wine fair, which spotlights producers who prioritise minimal intervention. Sustainability isn’t just a buzzword here – it’s a commitment. Restaurants like Frea, Remi, and Barra focus on local sourcing, sustainable packaging, and showcasing producers with eco-friendly farming practices

“Plus, wine bars are evolving into multifunctional spaces. For example, some now combine wine with workshops or unique pairings that extend beyond traditional cheese boards. This trend reflects Berliners’ thirst for experiences that are as creative as their wine.

“And the city’s multiculturalism has influenced wine pairings. Those at Verōnika, Coda, Nobelhart und Schmutzig and Macionga are experimental and very successful.”

Which wines are most popular on wine lists at the moment?

“German classics like the local varietals Riesling and Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) remain staples, but there’s growing interest in lesser-known grapes like Silvaner and Scheurebe. Mauerwinzer, Hotspot and Planet Wein are your go-to places in terms of classics.

“German Sekt, an affordable yet high-quality alternative to Champagne, is gaining traction, with smaller producers delivering exceptional options.

“Wines from lesser-known regions like Slovenia, Hungary, and the Czech Republic are appearing on more menus, showcasing Berlin’s openness to exploring underrepresented regions. That is the main concept of wine lists from Sky Kitchen, Noble Rot and Horváth for example. The smaller French, Spanish and Italian appellations are also getting some great momentum and are more often seen on lists.”

How can a restaurant or wine bar impress you?

“– Transparency: clear details about each wine’s origin, producer, prices and practices.
– Variety: a well-rounded list featuring both classics and experimental options.
– Service: staff who can confidently and enthusiastically share the story behind each wine.
– Sustainability: a commitment to eco-friendly practices, from packaging to sourcing.”

Do you have any wine list pet peeves?

“– Vague or incomplete wine lists: patrons appreciate having enough information to make an informed choice.
– Limited options: a list that feels too safe or uninspired can be a missed opportunity.
– Uninformed service: staff who lack knowledge can diminish the overall experience.”

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