New and rightfully popular Basque-inspired, wood-fired grill restaurant on the first floor above Smoking Goat (an equally excellent but separate entity – and Thai). Housed in a decommissioned East end strip club, it looks more like a smart old man’s London pub with wood panels and original features. Wine is obviously a focus – empty bottles sit above the front door and line the corridor to the stairs. The specialty is of course Turbot (Brat) alongside quality cuts of meat, whole game birds and clean, superlatively sourced sides – all simply but expertly cooked. The wine list doesn’t disappoint, as you would expect having been compiled by Team Noble Rot. After Grower Champagne and an artisan Prosecco the list is divided into three sections – Easy Drinkers, The Classics and Off The Beaten Track, with around 20 of both red and white in each. There’s a handful of bottles if you want to splurge and a decent range of sherries and other oxidative styles.
By Ruth Spivey