Otto’s

Otto’s has become a bit of an institution since opening in 2011, due to its unwavering commitment to classic, elegant and romantic French dining. You can go à la carte but the main draw is the canard (or homard) à la presse (tableside pressed duck or lobster). The eponymous Otto is very much present with an illustrious CV including Tour D’Argent in Paris (which was established in the 16th century and home of canard á la presse).

The wine list is international but basically mostly French. There’s a very limited choice by the glass, but you don’t go to Otto’s for ‘a glass’ so that’s fine and in any case, it’s very easily forgiven when you see the generous number of half bottles. Bottles are classic in style and there’s lots of opportunity to go big, or indeed massive, in Burgundy and Bordeaux. Unsurprisingly there’s an enthusiasm for sweet wines and, if you haven't already developed gout, it’s time to clatter through the Calvados and Cognac.

All this goes on inside an unassuming building on Gray’s Inn Road, a pretty grotty no-man’s land between Holborn, Kings Cross and Clerkenwell. The décor is surprisingly relaxed given the cuisine, if anything a bit shabby, with a hint of gothic, but this only adds to the fun and makes you want to stay even longer. Downstairs there’s a plush private dining room with a view of the wine collection, where they also host occasional wine dinners by MW’s, vignerons, and collectors.