LPM London

The London outpost of the international luxury group LPM is tucked away on a cobbled mews in well-heeled Mayfair behind Claridge’s Hotel. Inspired by the Côte d’Azur lifestyle, the food is pure Riviera chic: pristine produce and pared back preparation.

The wine list is long, deep and at times eye-wateringly expensive, but you don’t come here for a budget slurp, so c’est la vie. This is most evident in the wines by the bottle and carafes, where there are a dozen of each colour, with all but one in double or triple figures. So just give in, buy a bottle and enjoy.

There are highlights galore throughout this liquid who’s who of French (and Italian) wine. Kicking off with one of the best rosé lists around - of course the usual suspects feature heavily, but it’s not all ‘Domaine Yacht’.

White and reds both begin with a focus on ‘Provence et Sud de la France’ too. Champagne (plentiful) is a pleasing mix of shower and grower and every few pages you land on a wow factor vertical.

LPM is never a steal, but is it superb, and for a cellar this slick it’s also far from exclusionary if someone else isn’t paying.