The wine list at one-star Portland is given just as much attention as the menu and changes almost as frequently. The wine buying team scour old cellars, auctions and off the beaten-path wine merchants to create one of the best mid-sized lists in town (120-bins) celebrating wine in all its diversity. In the cellar you will find natural skin-contact wines mingling with red-trousered claret and everything in between.
The food is innovative European, served with the buzzy vibe now commonplace amongst 21st century no-table-cloth-star-holders. As well as the textbook examples, they deliver value via lesser known varietals and regions and don't miss the extra ‘Single Bottle List’ of rare and esoteric finds. There's a generous selection by the glass and they haven't forgotten fortified either - old bottles of Maderia and Port and even older Vin Doux Naturels available by the glass for a closing treat.
By Ruth Spivey
£20, max 2 bottles, free on Monday