Informal bistro with an open kitchen in the back, on the hip and historical Columbia Road, in Hackney – home of the famous Sunday flower market. The superb cooking has a relaxed ease – a daily menu of seasonal, produce-driven, regional European dishes and not-to-be-missed classic desserts. Set up in 2010 by wine importer Les Caves de Pyrene the wine list is thorough and natural/sustainable/biodynamic. It’s now solely owned by the original (and very wine-savvy) chef Ed Wilson, who’s taken the whole offer from strength to strength. The sizeable list is mostly European with a smattering of New World growers. With a backbone of quality and authenticity supporting a highly convivial atmosphere, Brawn is the perfect local restaurant that’s also worth crossing London for.