Poland Ambassador Norbert Dudzinski: “the ‘natural wine’ label has gone through its hype phase”

By Rachel Fellows

Published 26-February-2025

Interview / Poland

Certified sommelier Norbert Dudzinski has lived in the Polish capital of Warsaw since 2007, reporting for Star Wine List since 2020. His latest dispatch broadens our coverage of the country as a whole, with 21 new Red Stars, not to mention updates to 20 more.

As Norbert Dudzinski adds a clutch of Red Stars to Poland, we asked him what the wine scene looks like across the country and why it's such an exciting time for wine lovers to visit.

Why is now the right time to update Star Wine List’s coverage across the country?

“I’ve described places that have recently, or over the past few years, worked hard to become important wine destinations in Poland and which haven't appeared in the guide before, as it initially only covered Warsaw. I think it's a great time because it coincides with a huge increase in wine awareness among consumers, but also with a trend in the restaurant and wine venues – a focus on wine selection, on teams, and on increasingly well-defined concepts. This applies to several cities in Poland, not just the capital.”

How would you describe the food and wine scene in Poland today?

“It’s progressive, very dynamic, and catching up to what’s happening in mature wine and food markets. This comes from two elements: the expectations and openness of guests, who travel a lot and aren’t defined by age or generation – in Poland, this is a fairly large group. The second element is the industry itself, which is unrestrained – it's about the mindset, but also economic possibilities.

“A career in the hospitality sector is becoming increasingly attractive to young people so, naturally, more interesting figures are emerging who are ready to learn, travel, gain experience abroad, and then come back to shape the market and adapt trends. I see this ease in absorbing phenomena, but also in creating or finding one’s identity.

“There's also capital and investors willing to team up with the right team to create places that can establish a dialogue with Europe. I know of at least a few places that will open in Poland in this format soon, so the next Star Wine List update should be in the near future!”

How do you go about selecting and monitoring the venues that you recommend?

“I’ve been working with wine, with restaurants, following chefs, sommeliers, and foodie friends for many years. Being part of the industry keeps me updated, and I also try to go out regularly, usually in sessions, meaning I plan to visit several places in one trip. When I’m in other cities, I ask friends for recommendations, and I’m aware of at least some places worth checking out.

“The places I choose to describe have specific energies; they are places I feel would be at least an oversight not to mention. They are places that deserve attention from both beginners and long-time wine enthusiasts, places that are significant and valuable. As for monitoring, a lot can be seen on social media, but we also talk in our industry – it’s a small world, and everything is visible: effort, as well as lack of engagement or mediocrity.”

What are the major trends you've noticed across wine lists recently?

“I notice a trend of building wine lists around specific names rather than focusing on regions or appellations. Within various estates, one can be very diverse and showcase different styles and directions; this is also a clear sign to guests that the sommelier team is at another level, that extra effort has been made.

“This is also evident from working with importers, as the market has changed as well. Great projects have emerged, often operating on a small scale and specialising in specific categories. The fact that import doesn’t have to be democratic, that it can be expert-driven in a particular field while omitting others, is definitely a significant change.”

A lot of your recommendations offer a good amount of Polish wine on their lists – do you think there should be more representation for the country's wines?

“Polish wines are present on many lists, and one could say that, considering the scale of production (around 900 hectares across the whole country), the representation is very good, even broad. I think Polish wine producers have strong support from sommeliers and restaurants.”

You mention natural wines among several of your recommendations. Do you think a low-intervention style has become a standard part of the country's wine culture, and how does it go down with guests?

“It's a style that’s not fully defined and probably doesn’t need to be, because defining it would take away the space for conversation and discussion about details and differences in viticulture models and winemaking. I’m happy that the ‘natural wine’ label has gone through its hype phase, as this stage allowed this category to enter with more dynamism and reach a wider audience. Now, the term is being replaced by the one you mentioned – ‘low intervention.’ That’s a good thing because it draws attention to estates that work in a classical style and are low-intervention. It opens up discussions about what’s acceptable and what should be seen as a flaw, whether it’s possible to clearly convey terroir within this style. I think producers and sommeliers fascinated by natural wine have corrected their approach, which is not at all a retreat, but rather an acknowledgment of how important hygiene, discipline and cleanliness are. This has changed globally, but also in Poland.

“Additionally, in the context of the trend of not drinking alcohol or drinking less and focusing on quality, the category of natural wines associated with ‘glou-glou’ loses some of its relevance – it’s no longer about making something easy to drink or something simple to pair with food; it’s about having value in the wine – through terroir, the winemaker’s style, region, grape variety, vintage, or simply an experience.”

What are the main challenges facing the hospitality industry in Poland right now?

“We are in a phase of transforming how we think about gastronomy as a space that we visit as guests, but also as a workplace, profession, and passion. This is changing, and fortunately, it’s being taken more seriously now. As an emerging market, only recently have we started eating and drinking out of the house so regularly, so at this moment we don’t have a crisis. What’s important now is how we use this moment.

“I think it’s worth paying attention to work hygiene, to good working conditions, and this requires engagement and responsibility from both sides – employers and employees. Both sides have their rights, but also their responsibilities, and I’d say that I like the model of partnership, but also hierarchy, or mutual respect. This means more than it might seem and has a much bigger impact on hospitality as a group, but also on the lives of very specific individuals.”

Where are the hotspots for wine in Poland?

“My instinctive answer would be that Warsaw, benefiting from being the capital, has a large variety, and due to the size of the city, there are relatively many options. However, if I had to point out the best selections, it spreads across several cities, which makes me happy because it means that being outside the capital is not a limitation – though I realise it requires even more effort.”

What are you looking for in a wine list?

“On a wine list, I look for an overall concept, personality, but I also care about it being up-to-date, showing that it draws from several sources and values good estates. It doesn’t need to be a broad list covering many countries or regions; this change has also happened in Poland, where we now see lists in very specific directions. So if I know I can drink the best things, say from Spain or Austria, and I can see the effort, then that’s something very enjoyable to me.”

What have you been up to since your last update

“Not much has changed in my life, maybe I have even more work than before, but it's ultimately a nice problem to have. I'm still in the wine industry, running a wine shop and import business focused on French wines, particularly from Burgundy and Champagne. I’m happy to represent some truly exceptional estates here in Poland.

“I’m also about to open a wine bar, something I’ve wanted to do for a long time, and it marks the next stage in my journey in hospitality. All of these elements require perspective – talking to industry people, traveling, observing, eating, and drinking in different places, not just in Poland.”

Do you have any particular favourites amongst your new suggestions?

“Among the places that appeared in 2025, I definitely enjoy the maturity of the wine list at Bottiglieria 1881 in Kraków; the selection of Spanish wines at Arco by Paco Perez in Gdańsk; how carefully the wines are chosen at Steampunk in Wodna Wieża; and the extremely bold and exhaustive wine list at Sztuka Chleba i Wina in Białystok. There are more such places, and I’m surprised by the selections and the modernity of these wine lists in Poland.”

Explore the guide to Warsaw’s best wine places.