“Loire has never been so in, and you can feel the difference on wine lists” says new ambassador Jérôme Boullier

By Rachel Fellows

Published 07-January-2026

Interview / Loire

The beautiful Loire Valley produces some of the world’s finest wines so it’s no wonder visitors flock to this corner of France to pay homage. And if they want to explore its restaurants and bars along the way? Well, we’re happy to introduce our first full guide to the region with new ambassador, Jérôme Boullier, who will be covering both the Loire and Brittany, and who has just added 20 Red Stars – enough for a full itinerary (or three)!

He says that Sancerre is out, Muscadet is in, and that the Loire’s wine scene is now “extremely dynamic” when, not all that long ago, it had been “slowly dying.”

Jérôme Boullier was born in Brittany, Western France, but spent most of his childhood close to Nantes, on the southern bank of the Loire River. “I have fond memories of our yearly family gatherings in Brittany, as we made our own apple cider,” he says. “I also have roots in the Champagne region, so I guess we are big on bubbly in my family.”

After 10 years in London, the sommelier and beverage consultant returned to his childhood home, and he is now an exuberant advocate not just for the region’s wines, but its wine lists too.

“It’s a very dynamic city with an impressive yet accessible food, wine and art scene. It’s also been quite a shock to see how far Muscadet has come from in such a short time!”

As Jérôme adds 20 Red Stars to the Star Wine List map, forming our first full guide to the region (plus a spotlight on Nantes), we meet him and learn why now has never been a more exciting time for wine lovers to visit the Loire. He also has some useful tips if you’re planning your journey…

How would you describe the Loire’s wine scene today?

“I guess the wine scene is finally finding the sweet spot between traditions and more contemporary challenges, trends and customer expectations. In the vineyard, a new generation of well-travelled winemakers is taking over, and pushing the quality of grapes and wines to newer highs. The natural wine scene has been shaking things up quite a bit in the area, and brought sommeliers and buyers from across the world back to the region when it was slowly dying.

“Loire has never been so in, and you can feel the difference on wine lists: Vins de France made with Romorantin, Pineau d’Aunis or Folle Blanche now sit proudly next to Sancerre, Chinon and Savennière. In short, the wine scene is extremely dynamic, and evolving at a very exciting pace.”

How did you go about picking your Red Stars?

“It wasn’t an easy one – there are so many great places. I wanted to showcase bars and restaurants whose owners and staff have a visceral drive for sharing superb wines from the region and beyond; people who take hospitality very seriously, who never compromise on anything, whether that’s the wines they choose, the food they cook, or the service they offer. I also wanted to highlight accessible venues, as Red Stars should be safe havens for any visitors discovering the region.”

All-Chenin-Blanc wine lists are a thing.

What are the recent trends sweeping wine lists in the region?

“Muscadet has never been sooooo back, Sancerre is out. Reds from anything but Cabernet Franc are in, and so are pet-nats. All-Chenin-Blanc wine lists are a thing. And where did the grande marque Champagnes go?”

What are your biggest tips for visitors to the area?

“Tip number one regarding wineries: don’t hesitate to knock on doors. Most will be delighted to show you around, but if they can’t, they’ll kindly redirect you to a close-by winery that can. This is a region of extremely humble, friendly and down to earth country people. My second piece of advice is to go and eat in restaurants with vignerons, or at least go where they tell you to, especially at lunchtime. Last but not least, pack some water with you if you follow the Route des Vins: you’ll rarely be offered a glass of anything but wine on your journey!”

What's special about the Loire, as a place for wine lovers to explore?

“It’s incredibly diverse. Stylistically, you can get pretty much anything and everything, from the simplest to the most interesting sparklings, world-class whites and reds at absurdly accessible prices, and of course some insanely profound, time-defying sweet wines. It’s also a beautiful region, confirming the saying that beautiful landscapes make beautiful wines.”

What's your wine background?

“I caught the wine bug from my grandads. One was born in Champagne and loved to explore the classic French regions. He’d go mad for a Saint-Estèphe, a Gigondas, an Aloxe-Corton, and would order from the same domaines year on year. Those were pretty good value back then, something quite fancy he could still afford. My other grandad was a self-taught collector of bottles he’d get on discounted racks at supermarket wine fairs. He loved a bargain.

“For both my grandads, opening a bottle they chose and treasured before sharing with friends or family was their language of love. I hardly thought I’d make it a career when I chose my studies, until that lightbulb moment when I prospectively got in touch with a national wine distributor and started as a sales manager. They helped me get on the WSET program all the way through to Diploma. As Covid hit, I pivoted to become a sommelier, as well as running my own distribution and event company.”

As sommeliers, we should never assume that we are more capable of finding faults in wine than our guests.

What was the one wine that got you hooked?

“I wouldn’t say I could track it down to one single bottle. But whenever I start doubting my career choices, there is usually a wine or a winery visit that reminds me why I am here – just a sip of these complex wines makes me feel like new synaptic connections have been made, new emotions unlocked.”

Do you have any pet hates in wine service?

“This is just my opinion, and it comes from my frustrations as a customer in more casual wine places, but I very much dislike when the bottle ordered by a customer isn’t opened in front of them, and when they don’t get the first sip. As sommeliers, we should never assume that we are more capable of finding faults in wine than our guests. On a side note, I do encourage customers who spend good money on a nicer-than-usual bottle of wine to offer a sip or even a small glass to the staff; front of house and kitchen staff hardly ever get a chance to try some of the older vintages and premium bottles we sell in restaurants – it will always be appreciated.”

How can a wine list impress you?

“A well-put-together wine list to me is one that tells you about the bar or restaurant you are visiting, the people who selected the wine, and their values. It’s a list built in coherence with the food that is served, as well as the concept and identity of the place. And most importantly, a good list is a combination of conscious choices – in fact, I would say I learn just as much about the wines and domaines that were left out as those featured. It takes guts, confidence and passion to say, “No, I will not take this allocation from a top domain in favour of lesser known references that are more in tune with what we believe in.” And in today’s world, we cannot ignore accessibility, affordability, and sustainability aspects.”

What do you see as the future for wine, in the Loire?

“I am a big fan of Anjou and Tourraine’s troglodyte caves and what they represent. These corridors are untroubled by the agitation of the outside world. Everything seems to hold still for decades, nothing really changes at a noticeable pace, but things do get incrementally better over time. They are a good reminder that patience and stillness are at least as equally important as innovation and adaptation, when in balance, and I feel like wine producers in the Loire share this mindset for the future of their region.”

For all the bars and restaurants a wine lover should visit, explore...

The full guide to the Loire.

The wine guide to Nantes.