The latest from Lyon, with Marie Ponsonnet: caves, camaraderie and an “underrated secret”

By Rachel Fellows

Published 04-June-2026

Interview / Lyon

We’ve got seven new Red Stars in Lyon from ambassador Marie Ponsonnet, who’s been telling us about the camaraderie of the city’s sommelier community and the atmospheric settings being adopted for wine tastings of late.

Marie Ponsonnet describes the wine scene in her hometown of Lyon as “historic, daring, alive.” And judging by her latest dispatch as Lyon Ambassador, she’s not wrong – she’s just added seven Red Star recommendations to our guide, including natural wine devotees, sophisticated club concepts, friendly brassieries, and even a bar combining wine with a “retro gaming universe.”

Wine consultant Marie has reported for Star Wine List since 2021, having returned to France after seven years working as a sommelier in New York. Explore her latest recommendations and latest insights, below.

What should visitors to Lyon over the summer be sure to do?

“Sit on a terrace on Lyon’s cobbled streets with a glass of Beaujolais, where the summer atmosphere and light are genuinely magical. And if you can, get out of the city for a day and visit a vigneron in the Beaujolais or the northern Rhône. Lyon is one of the best starting points in France for wine tourism, and that’s still an underrated secret.”

In the past year, have you noticed any particular trends on wine lists or in wine service?

“Two things stand out. First, the by-the-glass offer is becoming significantly more ambitious with more references, more rotation, more diversity. And interestingly, selections are starting to venture slightly beyond the natural holy trinity of Burgundy, Beaujolais and the Rhône Valley, which of course will always hold a special place in Lyon, but leaves more room now for exploration further afield.

“The second trend I find really exciting is the rise of dining and tasting in cave settings. Lyon is an incredibly rich city historically, with vaulted cellars, old stone walls, and centuries of architecture beneath the streets. More and more of these spaces are opening their doors to guests, and the experience of discovering a wine in that kind of setting is something truly special. It adds a whole new dimension to the city’s wine culture.”

Do you have any particular favourites amongst your new Red Stars?

“Illustre bar à vins holds a special place for me. It’s the kind of address that the wine community gravitates to after service. The selection is alive and constantly evolving, and Matthias Boulaigre brings a real warmth and generosity to the experience. Soif ! is another one I love – Arthur Verdiel has built something completely singular, pairing a serious, organic-biodynamic-natural wine-focused list with a retrogaming universe. It sounds unlikely, but it works beautifully.”

How do you choose your Red Star recommendations?

“What I’m really looking for is that spark, the moment when the person talking to you about wine can’t hide their passion, when you feel it’s not a job but a calling. There has to be an obvious connection, that unspoken understanding between wine lovers. Beyond the list itself, I look at the overall coherence of the experience: the depth of the selection, the approach to service, the energy of the team on the floor. Hospitality matters enormously to me – the way guests are welcomed, made to feel at ease, guided through the list. A restaurant like Saisons embodies this perfectly: every step of the experience is crafted with precision and a genuine pursuit of excellence, from the first greeting to the last glass.”

Do you have any pet hates on wine lists?

“Lists dominated by ‘safe’ labels, or that copy-and-paste feeling you get when distributors have designed the wine list. I totally understand the commercial logic, but a wine lover also needs a little room for adventure. I also find it frustrating when a wine list has no real narrative or identity behind it.

“And pricing – when there’s no real range across price points, and the list lacks accessible, well-chosen options. A smart, affordable bottle is a skill in itself.”

What is the sommelier community like in Lyon?

“There's a genuine camaraderie among Lyon’s sommeliers, a shared enthusiasm that often translates into spontaneous vineyard visits, tasting straight from the barrel and building direct relationships with producers. Nestled between great wine regions, the city offers an exceptional playground, and that proximity to the vineyards shapes the community in a very tangible way.

“It’s also a young community. Lyon has a long tradition of hospitality education rooted in its gastronomic history. For instance, the Institut Lyfe and the Lycée François Rabelais in Dardilly both attract strong cohorts of French and international students every year. That constant influx of new talent keeps the scene dynamic and forward-looking.”

The wine guide to Lyon.