A Barcelona update from Ferran Centelles: Malvasía, murals and a magnum opus

By Rachel Fellows

Published 26-March-2026

Interview / Barcelona

World-renowned sommelier and wine writer Ferran Centelles has reported for Star Wine List from his Barcelona home since 2020. As he adds 12 Red Stars to our guide, he tells us what not to miss in this “true paradise” for wine over spring, and looks forward to completing a major body of work with the elBullifoundation that has taken nearly a decade.

“Barcelona is a very strong place,” says Ferran Centelles. Over the past year – since his last Red Stars additions to our guide – “openings such as Pompa and Vertical have really stood out, particularly from a wine perspective. At the same time, creativity and the talent of young chefs continue to set the pace and define the city’s energy.”

The former El Bulli sommelier has 12 new recommendations for wine lovers in and around Barcelona. And now is the perfect time to visit. Why?

“There’s big news,” says Ferran. “The Sagrada Família has just placed its final cross, and it’s truly spectacular – something not to be missed. But beyond the obvious, I would highly recommend the Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya. It currently features an exhibition on the old Laietanes cellars, where wine was sold in nineteenth-century Barcelona – an absolute delight.”

Jancis Robinson’s Spanish specialist and a busy member of our international jury for Star Wine List of the Year, Ferran is also the Drinks Manager for elBullifoundation, where he is reaching the end of the Wine Sapiens book series.

“This year I’m completing a project that has taken the last nine years of my life,” he tells us. “It’s called Sapiens del Vino – an encyclopaedia on wine developed using elBullifoundation’s Sapiens methodology. It consists of eight volumes exploring wine from the perspective of the restaurant. Some volumes are already available in English. It’s a major research effort carried out by a multidisciplinary team.”

Get the latest from Ferran, below, and explore the Star Wine List map to locate his new Red Stars across the city and in the wider Barcelona region, and Girona.

Are there any particular trends you’ve noticed across Barcelona’s wine lists recently?

“Barcelona has developed a strong sensitivity towards low-intervention and natural wines, showing that this is no longer a trend, but a well-established reality. As a cosmopolitan city, you can find wines from all over the world, without losing sight of local production. According to INCAVI (Catalan Vine and Wine Institute), four out of every 10 bottles opened in Catalonia are now Catalan wines – something that was not the case in the past, when Rioja and Ribera del Duero were more dominant. These regions, however, still play a very important role.”

What sets Barcelona apart from the rest of the world, for wine?

“The people. The wine community in Barcelona is what truly makes the difference. If you follow Star Wine List’s recommendations for the city, you won’t just find great wine lists – you’ll find passionate professionals who create memorable experiences around wine.”

You’ve added a mega batch of new Red Stars – do you have any particular favourites among them?

“Without a doubt, Vertical has been the standout newcomer of the year – a must-visit. But I would always highlight Gresca as well. For me, it remains a true paradise for both great wine and gastronomy.”

Do you have any pet hates on wine lists or in service?

“Not really. But I would say that attitude always comes first. Warmth, generosity, and a genuine desire to take care of the guest matter more to me than pure technique or knowledge.”

Is there one section of a wine list you typically make a beeline for, or are particularly passionate about?

“Yes – lately I’ve been drinking a lot of white wines, with a particular interest in Malvasía. That’s usually the first section I go to.”

Whereabouts in Barcelona do you hang out?

“El Born remains one of the most vibrant areas, with places like La Vinya del Senyor and La Teca at the heart of the wine scene. Having a glass of wine in front of Santa María del Mar is an experience you simply shouldn’t miss.”

What wine events or happenings are you looking forward to in 2026?

“It has already been a very intense start to 2026, with a highly successful edition of Barcelona Wine Week – it was fantastic. On a more personal note, I’m very much looking forward to a trip to Arribes del Duero, an emerging region on the border with Portugal that I find particularly exciting.”

Find your next wine spot in Barcelona.