Madrid Ambassador Agustín Trapero on “the soul of Spanish wine culture”

By Rachel Fellows

Published 23-April-2026

Interview / Madrid

As he adds six new Red Stars in Madrid and one in Medellín, we get the latest from our ambassador in the Spanish capital, sommelier Agustín Trapero. He tells us about the “transformation” of Madrid’s wine scene, why venues should view wine as the ultimate “storyteller” and how his Master Sommelier studies are going.

Agustín Trapero has reported for Star Wine List from his home “in the heart of Madrid” since 2022, recently sending us seven new Red Stars in the city – and beyond.

“The energetic atmosphere here is simply incredible,” he says of the capital. “It is a vibrant, non-stop hub where the city’s energy is at its peak and, for a wine lover, it is a dream location. Being in the Literary Quarter, I am surrounded by a constant stream of new wine scene openings, historic tapas spots, and specialised vinotecas. Sometimes it feels like I can’t even catch up with everything happening right on my doorstep, as the neighbourhood perfectly captures that unique Madrid balance of traditional charm and modern wine innovation.”

As the weather hots up, Agustín recommends exploring the “serious movement” of Galician wines that he mentioned to us in late 2024, which shows no signs of abating: “they are becoming a staple in all the best wine spots and are perfect for this time of year. I also suggest trying Albarin Blanco or a refreshing Sidra Asturiana DOP (Asturian cider), which we are seeing more of in fine dining for its lower alcohol and crisp, refreshing profile.”

Anything else?

“Outside of the wine world, you must take the time to simply enjoy the city’s beauty,” he says. “I highly recommend a long walk in the stunning Retiro Park – which is especially beautiful in the spring – and, of course, visiting the fantastic Triangle of Museums: El Prado, Reina Sofia, and Thyssen. They are world-class institutions that offer the perfect cultural balance to the city’s vibrant gastronomy.”

And here’s what else you need to know about wine in Madrid right now.

What’s been the biggest change seen by Madrid’s wine scene since we last spoke, late in 2024?

“The transformation has been remarkable. One of the biggest shifts is the influx of full-time EU workers now based in Madrid, which has brought a new level of diversity and a demand for varied wine profiles. We are also seeing massive new developments like the Metropolitan Forest project, located just a few metres from the Four Seasons, which is further elevating the luxury scene.”

How would you describe the city’s sommelier community?

“The sommelier community in Madrid is incredibly vibrant and professional right now, showing a very high level of quality and beverage awareness across the board. There is a real sense of personality and authenticity; it is no longer just about having a massive, prestigious list, but about the carefulness and the unique story behind every bottle.”

“Crucially, I’m seeing that Spanish sommeliers are more open minded than ever before. They are eager to taste through different wine regions from all over the world and are increasingly willing to add very specific, niche references to their wine lists. Whether it is at a brand new ‘21st-century tavern’ or a long-standing institution, there is a shared passion for discovery and a drive to offer guests something truly unique and thoughtful.”

Do you have any particular favourites among your new Red Stars?

“They are all excellent, but a few really stand out for their specific philosophies: Vinoteca Hermanos García de la Navarra (a project led by two brothers, Pedro and Luis, who is a prestigious figure and former president of the Madrid Sommelier Association); Sa Vida (Angel’s commitment to accessibility is staggering and he offers an unparalleled wine-by-the-glass selection of over 170 options from more than 15 different countries – a true sanctuary for those looking to discover emerging producers alongside cult wineries); Pabú (I am very moved by Patricia's ‘micro-seasonal’ approach and the way they champion local Spanish wines from historical vineyards).”

How do you go about choosing Red Star venues?

“My selection process is based on personality, authenticity, and carefulness. Beyond my own visits, I rely heavily on recommendations from my colleague sommeliers and the connections I make with new owners and sommeliers at regular events and tastings. I look for venues where there is a clear attention to detail, a thoughtful wine-by-the-glass programme, and staff who can offer expert, personal recommendations. For me, a Red Star venue must treat wine as a storyteller.”

How are your MS studies going?

“The journey towards the Master Sommelier continues to be an incredible challenge. To be honest, preparation is very hard because it is highly demanding and requires a huge amount of time; you really need to be disciplined with your schedule to stay on track. I am currently in the process of reorganising my study methodology to ensure I’m as efficient as possible, balancing the theory and tasting with my work as an ambassador and wine consultant. It is a long path, but the dedication required is exactly what makes the MS community so special.”

What are you up to at the moment – any exciting projects or plans?

“I am currently very busy with wine consultancy and staff training, which requires a lot of personalised work and frequent travel. It is a very active period, and I am truly happy with how my professional career is going at the moment. My focus is on elevating service standards and wine knowledge through hands-on education. While it demands a significant amount of time, seeing the growth in the teams I work with is incredibly rewarding.”

Explore the wine guide to Madrid.