Have you heard about Lyon's emerging wine bar culture? Marie Ponsonnet reports

By Rachel Fellows

Published 08-January-2025

Interview / Lyon

As Lyon Ambassador Marie Ponsonnet adds six Red Stars to our map, she describes the city’s burgeoning wine bar culture, where connections to individual winemakers are of paramount importance.

Marie Ponsonnet has reported on her hometown of Lyon for Star Wine List since 2021. Born into a winemaking family in Bordeaux, she trained as a sommelier in New York before returning to France to work for marketing consultancy SOWINE and make an organic wine with her friend Rajat Parr. Having just welcomed her third son, Marie is excited to use this pivotal life moment to “reinvent” herself: “I’m excited to see what comes next!” she says. That starts with completing her WSET Diploma, which was put on hold once she arrived back in her home country.

But Marie has also found time to stay abreast of the lively food and wine scene in Lyon. We get the latest from the city as she updates our guide.

How would you describe Lyon's wine scene at the moment?

“Lyon's wine scene is thriving, with a vibrant mix of tradition and innovation reflecting both the city's rich gastronomic heritage and its attractive power for the young generation in the hospitality industry. Close to historical wine regions such as the Rhône Valley, Beaujolais, and Burgundy, the wine scene in Lyon has thus many opportunities to feature local treasures and many reasons to be proud of it.

“However, the wine community in Lyon remains curious and is very attached to specific winemakers for their work and philosophy beyond the origin of production. Most wine buyers belong to the young generation and want to carry the trust they build with winemakers and truly do it with passion.

“There’s also an emerging wine bar culture! Lyon's wine bar scene has flourished these past years and reflects another way to enjoy wine – more casual – and with clients willing to explore and discover!”

What's the secret to a good wine list?

“Carrying a clear vision and staying true to it is essential! In today’s world, it’s tempting – and often easy – to simply replicate wine lists from well-known restaurants or wine bars, or follow trends set by so-called wine ‘influencers.’

“For me, what truly defines a good wine list is about curating a selection that is relevant to the restaurant’s DNA or establishment’s concept, its clientele, and its cuisine. A great wine list should tell a cohesive story. The categories should work together, each complementing and enriching the others, creating a harmonious flow.

“Ultimately, the success of a wine list lies in its ability to surprise, educate, and offer a sense of discovery while also being accessible to its audience.”

Have you noticed any trends emerging across Lyon's wine lists?

“Lyon’s wine lists have traditionally placed a strong emphasis on local wines, with an increasing focus on direct sourcing. This especially matters to the young generation aiming to reduce the carbon footprint, among other low-impact decisions and choices.

“Additionally, there has been a noticeable rise in featuring natural wines, leading to the emergence of new, less conventional wine spots. These include wine bars and counters serving small plates, often accompanied by great playlists. Certain places even call themselves ‘festive restaurants.’ It shows that, despite being a city deep-rooted in its rich gastronomic heritage, Lyon has definitely the energy and resources to reinvent itself and thus generate an ongoing power of attraction.

“Today, Lyon is where the stories of passionate winemakers are shared and explored.”

How can a restaurant or wine bar impress you?

“For me, it’s all about the service and how a sommelier or waiter engages with me. I believe the ability to truly read and understand customers is one of the most challenging aspects of our industry, yet it’s also what has the power to elevate my experience. While I may have some ideas of what I’d like to drink, I prefer to stay open-minded and follow recommendations. If I feel there is an exchange and I’m learning something new about wine through the wine team guidance, that’s what truly makes the evening memorable for me.”

Explore the guide to Lyon, here.