Explore Taiwan in 2025: 21 new Red Stars from Thomas Ho

By Rachel Fellows

Published 02-January-2025

Interview / Taiwan

As Taiwan gets ready to welcome the Lunar New Year and cherry blossom festivals in late January, we have a host of new recommendations from ambassador Thomas Ho to help wine lovers make the most of the celebrations.

“At the moment, I wear several hats,” says Star Wine List’s Taiwan Ambassador, “but at my core, I remain a sommelier.” That’s good news for us, as Thomas has just added a whopping 21 Red Stars to our Taiwan wine guide based on his knowledge of the country's varied wine scene.

Thomas currently runs LE SOMM, a sommelier consulting brand that assists restaurants, including four Michelin-starred establishments, by curating wine pairings, designing bespoke wine lists, and providing staff training. He teaches about wine and the sommelier craft in his role as Assistant Professor at the National Kaohsiung University of Hospitality and Tourism (NKUHT) and the Taiwan Wine Academy. And he is also an author, releasing his book, PAIROLOGY – A Sommelier’s Guide to Matching Food and Drink in 2022.

Among his new recommendations, Thomas highlights several wine bars established by sommeliers, such as Fermented by Tseng House in Taipei, a venue that he says “brings diversity and excitement to the city's wine scene.” His selection spans Taipei, Kaohsiung, Taichung and Pingtung. Thomas adds that, “high-quality wine spaces like Pompette Salon or Justin's Wine & Bistro, founded by successful entrepreneurs, also cater to international high-end consumers and drive the potential of the premium wine market. Additionally, I have a special appreciation for Michelin-starred restaurants that emphasise wine, such as Ad Astra, L'Atelier par Yao, and Haili, which have significantly elevated the overall wine-focused dining atmosphere.”

How can a wine bar or restaurant impress you?

“Having a strong sense of individuality is key to making a lasting impression. Whether it’s a wine bar with a thoughtfully-curated selection or a restaurant excelling in harmonious food and wine pairings, such attention to detail stands out.

“As wine becomes increasingly personalised, I am particularly impressed when the wine choices align seamlessly with the culinary style of the restaurant’s chef – a wine list that reflects the chef’s unique approach to cuisine leaves an unforgettable impression.”

How has Taiwan's wine scene developed since your last Star Wine List update?

“Taiwan's wine market is currently stable, with high-end wine sales showing some moderation in 2024. However, a variety of diverse and stylistically unique wine spaces, restaurants, and wine bars continue to open. With younger generations increasingly embracing wine culture, wines with strong character and personal style are gaining more attention.

“Notably, Taiwanese restaurants are placing greater emphasis on food and beverage pairing – not just with wine but also with mixed pairings, such as cocktails, sake, or local beverages, as well as non-alcoholic pairings. This trend is becoming increasingly prominent and reflects the evolving preferences of the local market.”

What are the biggest trends across the country's wine lists?

“I believe the trend of natural (low intervention) wine continues to grow steadily in Taiwan. This movement has been largely driven by Yusen Lin, a renowned Taiwanese wine writer, who launched the Buvons Nature natural wine fair in 2016. The event has consistently promoted natural wine by showcasing internationally acclaimed wineries and collaborating with local Taiwanese ones to produce unique, special-edition wines. However, consumers with higher purchasing power tend to favour premium Champagnes and Burgundy wines.”

Where is the biggest wine hub in Taiwan?

“Taipei remains the primary wine hub in Taiwan, with its diverse array of wine bars – Michelin restaurants and an influx of international visitors driving a vibrant wine scene. However, Taichung is also worth noting, as the younger demographic's growing interest in wine is boosting consumption in the city.”

What are the main challenges facing wine destinations in Taiwan?

“I believe there are currently two main challenges. First, the number of tourists has declined compared to pre-pandemic levels, and local consumers are now more inclined to spend on overseas travel, which reduces their budget for domestic consumption.

“Second, younger consumers tend to shy away from overly complex wines, such as traditional styles with intricate labelling from France, Spain, or Italy. Instead, they gravitate toward approachable, easy-to-drink wines with appealing labels at affordable price points. Additionally, low-alcohol beverages are increasingly becoming mainstream. For high-spending customers, both the market and restaurants need stronger marketing efforts to maintain their previous sales performance.”

Explore our guide to Taiwan.