Restaurant De Lage Vuursche

Restaurant De Lage Vuursche is in a tiny village that’s also called De Lage Vuursche. Though it is a bit of a pain to get to if you don’t own a car (and why would you want to go somewhere by car if you’re planning on drinking wine?), De Lage Vuursche is worth the effort. Now owned and run by the fifth generation of the Van Oosterom family, Roderick van Oosterom keeps things exactly as they have always been. Perhaps Mum and Dad still hand out a bit of help here and there, but Roderick is the one in charge.

It’s an oasis of warm, welcoming tradition in a royal village surrounded by forest. With its linen-covered tables, silver chandeliers, 1800s woodwork, tapestry, and waiters in full black- and-white regalia, it’s like Downton Abbey, where you’re part of the family. All this and yet there’s nothing stiff about the place. The kitchen is run by Laurens Hensen who, despite his young 30-something age, has a resumé that includes traditional French butter-and-cream infused restaurants, which is just what a place like De Lage Vuursche asks for. They also still do some table-side food preparations like Crêpe Suzette if you order it a day in advance.

But the reason why it’s on Star Wine List is, above all, the wine list and wine service. The wine list is classically oriented, offering mostly artisanal French producers alongside a lovely selection of well-priced, mature Bordeaux wines. That’s the result of having a large array of well-off guests, who sometimes leave their cellars to the Van Oosterom family as a thank you for years of service and hospitality.

From Amsterdam, travelling to De Lage Vuursche is like going on holiday. Take the train to Hilversum or Baarn, rent a (yellow-blue public transport) bike, cycle for half an hour and you’re in a completely different world where great service, good food and a lovely wine list go hand-in-hand.