“A perfect list has a pulse” says Melbourne Ambassador Liinaa Berry

By Rachel Fellows

Published 03-July-2025

Interview / Melbourne

We've got 13 new Red Stars from Melbourne Ambassador Liinaa Berry, who tells us about the alternative grape varieties and regenerative farming approaches sweeping the city's wine selections. And where wine-loving travellers should make a beeline for during this “moody” and “cosy” winter season.

After 20 years in hospitality, Liinaa Berry is “stepping back from full-time service” to focus on wine consultancy, writing, and education. Originally from Mauritius, the Melbourne-based sommelier has extensive experience in both countries and, since we last caught up with her in 2022, she has opened a restaurant in the city’s Northside neighbourhood and spent time as a wine buyer.

“I have the privilege of curating wine programs,” she tells us, “and [I] train staff on wine knowledge and service skills across several establishments. Education and shaping a more sustainable future for wine is what really drives me these days.”

Liinaa also sits on the events committee for the Victoria branch of Sommeliers Australia and she is bringing her “free-spirited approach” to various projects, including a forthcoming trade and consumer tasting highlighting the wines of Central and Eastern Europe. “I am also working on wine experiences that go beyond wine as the single focal point, events that touch on other cultural and environmental aspects. Watch this space!”

Liinaa lives in South Melbourne, “20 minutes walk to the CBD,” she says. “There’s a soft magic to having access to both the city and the beach (10 minutes’ drive) as well as being right on the doorstep of the arts precinct of Melbourne – the National Gallery of Victoria!”

As she adds 13 new Red Stars to our Melbourne guide, we get an update on just what wine looks like in the Australian city today.

How would you describe Melbourne’s wine scene at the moment?

“Melbourne’s wine scene continues to be a beautiful contradiction: refined but rebellious; rooted in tradition yet always evolving. There’s an increasing openness to the ‘why’ behind wines; provenance, people, farming. Lists are becoming more narrative-led, and guests are more engaged than ever. There’s also a renewed focus on local identity: fewer copycat lists, more personality. After an insecure post-Covid era and the longest lockdown in the world, Melbourne has finally found its momentum again.”

Have you noticed any trends emerging across Melbourne’s wine lists?

“Yes, a few. There’s a notable shift toward regenerative and responsible farming on wine lists, not just lo-fi for the sake of it. Alternative varieties are becoming more and more attuned to the everyday drinker – Aligoté and Savagnin are getting some serious traction, so is Fiano and lots of other Italian varieties; also cool-climate Syrah, or any snappy and vibrant red wines of provenance.

“We’re also seeing the quiet rise of Central and Eastern European wines, a new frontier of terroir and story that’s gaining traction. Also, there’s more openness to offbeat pairings, breaking the rules, and wines by-the-glass with guts and grace, and the wine community in general being more inclusive than ever.”

What, to you, makes the perfect wine list?

“A perfect list has a pulse. It should reflect a clear point of view, tell a story, and carry both levity and depth. The classics are there not out of duty, but because they matter, and the outliers earn their place. It’s a list that invites conversation and discovery, is curated with care (not ego), and can flex with the food, the guest, and the moment.”

Do you have any pet hates on wine lists or in wine service?

“Lazy groupings like “Other Whites” or “Funky/Natural” – they flatten nuance and disempower varieties from [having] greatness potential. Also, when pricing feels punitive or [the] temperature of wine is not right… being served a warm glass of Gamay tells a lot about the venue.

“In service, I loathe the performance of knowledge without emotional intelligence. Wine service should feel natural, effortless. The overuse of winemaking language when serving wine is a turnoff too.”

What is Melbourne like during the winter?

“Moody in the best way. There’s a cerebral, cloaked-in-cashmere vibe to the city in winter. It’s when Melbourne leans into its love affair with dark wine bars, roasted flavours, and long dinners. The city glows inwards. It’s contemplative. Cosy. A little noir. And we pride ourselves [on] the diversity and high quality of venues available… authentic and culturally rich.”

What should visitors be sure to do during this period?

“Pull up a stool at Bar Olo for evening fun snacks and have a yarn over a bottle of Barolo, chill for a low key session at Napier Quarter, get looked after well at CIRCL over an extensive by the glass menu and hear all the stories, book a long lunch at Gimlet or Tedesca, duck into the NGV or catch a film at the Astor. Flaunt winter fashion (coats, gloves, boots) and walk the Botanic Gardens, enjoy the autumn colours and the clean crisp air on a sunny day. Winter is when Melbourne’s layers reveal themselves. It’s the perfect season to indulge in depth, texture, and warmth.”

Are there any major hot spots for wine across Melbourne?

“The city and inner north remain hotbeds: Carlton, Fitzroy, Collingwood; but Footscray and Brunswick are also stirring things up. I tend to gravitate towards places that feel lived-in and intentional. But I’m also loving the emerging venues that champion lesser-known regions with real heart and hospitality.”

Explore the wine guide to Melbourne with all of Liinaa’s new recommendations.