“The person with the most knowledge holds the correct perspective” – La Strega’s Andrea Consonni on being an Italian in Sweden
Andrea Consonni’s Gothenburg restaurant took home the Special Jury Prize at Star Wine List of the Year Sweden 2025. We asked the Italian sommelier about life in Sweden – the challenges, the people, the food and, of course, the wine.
La Strega is the Gothenburg restaurant owned and operated by Andrea Consonni and his wife, chef Nina Rydqvist. At this month’s Star Wine List of the Year Sweden competition, the judges saw fit to award La Strega with a Special Jury Prize. Reserved for venues that demonstrate an extraordinary approach to their wine program, it was the “personal and uncompromising character” of La Strega’s wine list that earned them this prestigious Gold Star.
Andrea and Nina established La Strega after moving from Italy to Gothenburg in 2011, bringing with them their Italian heritage and a passion for authentic flavours. Prior to their venture in Sweden, Andrea worked as a sports journalist in Milan, while Nina honed her culinary skills as a chef in Como. Their combined expertise has shaped La Strega into a notable destination in Gothenburg's gastronomic scene, offering a unique perspective on Italian cuisine and wine culture in Sweden.
When you first came to Sweden in 2011, what struck you as the most unusual aspect related to wine and food?
“The most shocking thing was the monopoly system, Systembolaget. In Italy, you can buy both food and wine in the same store. You might choose the wine first and then decide on the food to pair with it, or vice versa. However, in Sweden, with the state-run monopoly stores, everything is separated. On Sundays, if you decide to host a spontaneous lunch with friends, there's simply nowhere to purchase a bottle of wine since the monopoly stores are closed.”
How has Sweden's wine culture evolved since you opened La Strega?
“A significant amount has changed. The pandemic, in particular, seems to have fostered a greater passion for wine and food among people. Being confined at home, individuals had to make their own wine and food choices, and I believe this heightened their awareness. Nowadays, clients are more informed, and it's more common to have engaging conversations about terroir and soil compared to before, when discussions were much more basic and focused on mainstream options.
“Today, the wine scene is more niche. The advent of online wine ordering with home delivery in Sweden has also encouraged wine enthusiasts to learn more about their purchases and seek out specific, unique selections.”
In Sweden, the customer is always right, whereas in Italy, they might need to be educated. How does this dynamic play out at La Strega?
“[Laughs] I'm a bit of a monster, and no, guests are not always right. I firmly believe that the person with the most knowledge holds the correct perspective, whether that's me or a guest. This principle applies to all aspects of life. Like these days, if you lack understanding of macroeconomics, you shouldn't be making decisions about global tariffs.”
If a customer becomes upset, do you adopt a diplomatic approach?
“No, I don't. Swedes can be a little hesitant, but at the same time, they appreciate direct answers to find a resolution. I prefer to get straight to the point.”
What do you find most challenging about running a restaurant in Sweden?
“The costs and prices are very high currently. Additionally, the limited availability of ingredients compared to a place like Italy is a significant challenge. We simply don't have the same variety. In Italy, visiting the market means encountering twenty different types of tomatoes, whereas here we might have only one.
“The fluctuation of the Swedish Krona also makes it difficult to explain to guests why certain things cost what they do. However, I do believe that where there is a strong foundation of culture, dedicated study, artisanal practices, and hard work, people tend to understand these factors.”
Yet, your wines are priced reasonably…
“We strive to do so, and Gothenburg generally offers more affordable prices compared to a city like Stockholm.”
Do you have a bottle on your wine list that you secretly wish you could keep for yourself and not sell?
“[Laughs] All of them! Sometimes, when we reach the last bottle of a particular wine, I think, “Noooo!” They are all like my children, and I have a real fondness for each one.”
Which Italian wine region deserves the greatest recognition?
“Italy is already very well known for its wine, but there are numerous smaller regions producing exceptional wines. I particularly appreciate the Cesanese grape from Lazio. Ultimately, the most important thing is to drink well, and why not begin with the more familiar regions before exploring further?”
Explore the full list of winners at Star Wine List of the Year Sweden 2025
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