California Ambassador Morgan Harris MS: “we have more access to more great wine from all over the world than ever before”
With 10 new Red Stars in San Francisco and California wine country from ambassador Morgan Harris MS, we ask what’s happening in the region.
One year into his role, San Francisco Ambassador Morgan Harris has just added 10 new Red Stars to his home city and California's wine country more broadly, including Star Wine List’s first recommendations outside of Napa and Sonoma.
“I think it’s crucial to have some editorial work on helping people to discover places that care about their wine selection and service,” he says. “With the Star Wine List ambassadorship, it’s been an honour to help to feature businesses who have made that commitment. Wine is culture, and how do you grow that culture without having a resource to promote great wine venues?”
Most recently proctoring for the Court of Master Sommeliers, this Master Sommelier has been enjoying some “killer” Galician reds and will soon be heading to sample the wines of Georgia.
Take a look at his new Red Stars and check out our guide to the best spots in wine country.
Morgan's new wine country red stars
Morgan's new San Francisco Red Stars
Have there been any major changes in the food and wine scene over the past year?
“San Francisco has always been a restaurant town, and California has always been one of America’s great agricultural ‘bread baskets,’ providing us access to some of America’s most beautiful produce. If anything, we’ve really seen a greater commitment to elevated simplicity, with wine lists being shorter, but very well curated, and this correlates pretty similarly to movements in kitchens, i.e. lots of restaurants with uncomplicated food focusing on great flavours and exceptional ingredients, without being too tweezer-food-y.”
With an uncertain political climate, are you noticing any effects on the food and beverage front?
“Wine prices are definitely up, but I think that’s a collusion of a lot of factors, certainly including the tariffs. Importers are definitely going to feel the squeeze most. As for better or worse, restaurant buyers can shift their purchasing elsewhere. However, because importation and distribution of domestic and European wines are so intertwined, it really impacts literally every corner of the wine business, and no one is ‘safe,’ unfortunately. Luckily, smart restaurant buyers have realised that many of these most expensive bottlings don’t really make sense in restaurants any more, but we have more access to more great wine from all over the world than ever before. To drink well on a budget is possible, but you’ll need to look at appellations, countries and grape varieties that are possibly a bit more obscure. There are very few people in the American wine trade excited about the prospect of another round of tariffs, especially with the dramatically weakened American dollar.”
What makes a good wine list?
“Building a great wine list is about thoughtfulness, and matching concept to audience. I really don’t think you need $300K in inventory to show your taste off. Wine, ultimately, is more of a condiment to great food and company. Making sure your list is hospitable, thoughtful, and a reflection of your restaurant’s values and culture is the primary consideration for me, and that can take on a lot of different manifestations. You can easily have a 100-bottle list that’s more thoughtful than a 1,500-bottle one. After that, it’s really just hospitality and service.”
Are any trends emerging or taking hold across wine lists right now?
“There’s never a bad time to be in California wine country. It truly is some of the most special vineyard environs on the planet. Napa has definitely claimed the title for luxury experience, but that’s left other regions to claim the title for value and differentiated experience, something different to standard luxury hospitality – something for every taste and budget (and adventure sensibility)!”
What is San Francisco like over the summer months?
“Due to our shockingly consistent weather, summer in San Francisco doesn’t really often feel much different than winter, or any other season. But business and conferences definitely slow down, making it slightly easier to get reservations. Grabbing a bottle at Bi-Rite, and drinking it in Dolores Park is always a favourite of mine, but it’s always a good time to be in San Francisco. Otherwise, I just try to get outdoors on my bike as much as possible, up to the Marin Headlands or out to San Bruno Mountain. For wine lovers, I think that lunch or brunch at Zuni Café is one of the most quintessential San Francisco wine experiences.”
What's the effect on the wine scene of being so close to so many producers?
“One of the great privileges of drinking wine in America is that we’re able to drink wine from everywhere, which includes our local offerings. However, I concede, as do several of the wine directors of restaurants on our list, that occasionally the exuberance and richness of prototypical California wines can overwhelm some cuisines. For example, if you go to a nice Italian restaurant, expect to see California wines, but likely from Italian varieties, and not big, oak-driven Cabernet. Smarter wine directors will leave those wines to our steakhouses, and will focus on offerings from Italian varieties, while still sticking California. We love to support our local producers, but we’ll do that in a way that aligns with our restaurant’s values, generally.”
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