Even though Daniel Boulud's classic French cooking may have fallen from grace in the eyes of some critics, this still is one of the temples of food and wine you must visit in the city. Dress up. Come early. Grab a Martini in the bar. Study the tome that is the wine list while waiting for your company. Marvel at the effortless skill and elegance of the service team. You're going to eat and drink extraordinarily well, and dream of simpler times.