BAK

One of Amsterdam’s first “bistronomy” restaurants, BAK started life as a pop-up in a squatted space in 2013 and breathed new life into the Netherlands’ then stuffy dining scene. They now co-own the warehouse space, with its wonderful wooden-beamed ceiling and views over the water at Houthavens.

You’re in for a highly creative seven-course tasting menu – except at lunch or weekday nights when there’s also a cut-down option. The cooking goes all out for seasonality and provenance and concentrates on foraged ingredients, vegetables, game and wild-caught fish. Flavour combinations are adventurous.​

The dining room is airy, the service unhurried and there are no white tablecloths or multiple sets of cutlery – if you want formality this is the wrong place!

BAK will almost always surprise you, with wines you’d never expect to see by the glass. Gravner 2002, grower Champagne from Francis Boulard or a Jean Michel Stephan 2009 Cote Rotie Tupin have all featured recently.

Needless to say, this makes the “wine arrangement” well worth its low​ price of admission. You’re in for a treat. The short version of the bottles list is a grab bag of minimal-intervention goodness, with strong showings from Italy and France and cameo roles for the rest of Europe. Lovers of Elisabetta Foradori, Occhipinti, Sebastien Riffault or Suertes del Marques will be in heaven.

There’s also a little black book for those who want to go deeper into the bowels of the cellar – and there are jewels within!

Available on request.

Yes, for the price of the house wine (currently €28).