The young chefs playfully reinterpreting Italian traditions – an update from Tuscany

Åsa Johansson
Rachel Fellows
Published 28-August-2024
Interview / Tuscany

Star Wine List’s Tuscany ambassador hails from Sweden but has lived in Italy for over 20 years. An internationally published wine journalist, judge and educator, Åsa Johansson spends her time travelling across Italy, discovering new restaurants as she goes – and she's found three Red Stars to add to our list.

“These new selections represent venues established by passionate wine connoisseurs, who bring a fresh perspective to their respective locations,” Åsa says. They mark our first listings in the cities of Siena and Lucca, and the town of Montalcino – a welcome advancement for Åsa, who describes them as “true gems for wine enthusiasts.”

How did you find these new venues?

“The beauty of the wine and food community is our love for sharing not only a bottle but also our favourite spots. Through these shared experiences, we discover unique venues.”

What’s the latest on the Tuscan food and wine scene?

“Currently, there is a surge of young, passionate entrepreneurs opening new establishments, particularly in the outskirts of larger cities where the focus is less on tourists and more on local clientele.

“However, these are challenging times for the restaurant and wine industry, and navigating these difficulties remains a significant hurdle.”

How can a restaurant impress you?

“At the moment, I am most impressed by young chefs with great skills and international experience in high-end restaurants who return to Italy and open more simple trattorias.

“These young Italian chefs reinterpret Italian traditions in a playful manner and provide a relaxed yet heartfelt service, which is also reflected in their wine lists.

"I find the often-rigid environments of Michelin-starred restaurants less and less appealing and I feel that, after the pandemic, it is more important to stay in good company, enjoy wine and food, and be taken care of without spending a fortune.”

How does Tuscany compare to the rest of Italy in terms of its restaurants’ wine offerings?

“Tuscany is a well-developed region, primarily due to the influx of tourists. For a long time, it has relied heavily on traditional offerings, without much innovation. Although there is a gradual shift towards more creative and contemporary approaches, there is still room for growth and innovation. I wish it was easier for young people to open new places.”

What do you look for in a wine list?

“I appreciate wine lists that display personality and diversity.”

Do like the Pros - search 3000+ wine lists

Share

Did you know?
You can search for tens of thousands of wines and see where they are listed in restaurants and wine bars.
Search for wine lists on Star Wine List