“Have something for the geeks,” pleads Ontario Ambassador Matthew Landry

By Rachel Fellows

Published 10-July-2025

Interview / Ontario

Our Ontario Ambassador has added 11 new Red Stars to our map, in Toronto, Creemore and Burlington. A year after taking on this region for Star Wine List, having previously covered Vancouver, we caught up with the Master Sommelier candidate.

Matthew Landry is currently taking a “summer sabbatical.” This includes “learning French and studying for my upcoming Master Sommelier exam,” he tells us – not everyone’s idea of a holiday, but an honourable plan nonetheless. “I plan to bounce around until the autumn, sipping nice wine en Français. Apres ça, je ne sais pas.”

An Advanced Sommelier and 2019’s Best Sommelier of British Columbia, Matthew is also a wine educator and consultant (he has his own company, named Tannin Management). Growing up in the Niagara region, he started reporting for Star Wine List from his then home of Vancouver, in 2022, before moving back east and thus taking responsibility for Ontario.

Today, he adds eight Red Stars to our Toronto wine guide and three more to our broader Ontario map – in Creemore and Burlington. We asked him how the wine scene is looking.

What’s been happening in the year since you became Ontario Ambassador?

“I’ve appreciated the explosion of options outside the Greater Toronto Area. Places like The Pine, Isabelle and Chin Chin are offering great wine selections for people road tripping to some of the province’s more beautiful spots.”

How would you describe the wine scene in Toronto and the surrounding area?

“I’d say it offers a bit of everything, and while natural wine continues to be ‘The Thing,’ there are still plenty of more classically minded lists holding court in the city’s downtown core.”

Have you noticed any particular trends emerging?

“As the world gets tougher and tougher, I’ve noticed that it appears to be larger, ultra premium locations that are thriving – that or dive bars. The mid-range, independent restaurant or wine bar is certainly up against it these days.”

How can a restaurant or wine bar impress you?

“Honestly, I just want a restaurant wine list to have a point of view. I should be able to look at a list and have an idea of the wine director’s likes and dislikes, biases and pet projects. That and, you know, have something for the geeks. It’s great to have verticals of Conterno, Mascarello, et al, but sneak a Pelaverga on the list for those of us who didn’t invest in crypto a decade back.”

Do you have any pet hates on wine lists or in service?

“When natural wine lists just list the producer and cuvée name. I’ve studied wine for a decade now and if I can’t figure out the very basics of your list – like say, where a wine is from or what the grape is – how do you expect a regular customer to?”

Any particular favourites amongst your new recommendations?

“I think what Christian Hamel did with the new Harbour 60 has been downright inspirational. Give that man his flowers. There are very few wine lists in Canada that can match the breadth of that tome.”

What's the best thing to do in Toronto over summer – any tips for visitors?

“Grab some bottles from one of Toronto’s many great wine shops – Bossanova, Grape Witches, etc. – and hit Toronto Island. There’s even a nude beach, for those so inclined. Have you ever drunk Muscadet while a gentle breeze cools your under carriage? Glorious.”

What would you like to see more of in the region, wine-wise?

“I’d love more German wine, especially from outside the Mosel. Beyond that, South Africa is sorely underrepresented.”

Read the updated guide to Toronto.