Going for Gold with Peasant’s Michael Laudenslager
After taking Silvers in Star Wine List of the Year competitions going back to 2023, the Wine Director of New York’s Peasant took a new tack – “I knew we had to go big” – and, this year, it finally bagged him a Gold Star. Meet Michael Laudenslager and get to know his (almost) exclusively Italian wine list – New York’s joint Best Medium-Sized List of 2026. Will he make it a Global Gold Star in June?
An Italophile’s playground, the hearty focus of Michael Laudenslager’s wine list at Peasant makes a lot of sense for Marc Forgione’s restaurant, which describes itself as “rustic Italian” and is located in the stylish Nolita neighbourhood (“North of Little Italy”). But this list has ballooned since first appearing at the Star Wine List of the Year New York awards, taking it from a runner-up in the Best Short List category two years in a row (for lists with under 200 wine references), to the winner of the Best Medium-Sized List category in 2026 (200 to 600 references) alongside Brooklyn’s Four Horsemen.
Star Wine List Founder Krister Bengtsson asked Laudenslager whether he’d had the competition in mind when redeveloping this now Gold Star wine list, at this week’s New York awards ceremony, held at Suntory’s Global Headquarters in Manhattan.
“Honestly, yeah, I did. Because in 2023, we were a Short List – it was a very different programme then. In 2024 we were shortlisted again. And when we were trying to figure out how to win, I knew we had to go big.
“For Italian wine to get, you know, around 500 to 600 placements, it’s kind of hard, and you have to shop every region. And I think when we really got it right is when we stopped taking it so seriously and had a lot of fun. And I think that’s how wine needs to be celebrated. It’s a little bit more approachable and fun for the guests; and, of course, the sommeliers – for myself.”
A New York institution
Peasant was first opened by Frank DeCarlo in 1999, who handed over to Marc Forgione in 2019. With a focus on wood-fired and open-flame cooking, the atmospheric, candlelit dining room is described by Star Wine List’s New York City Ambassador Wanda Mann as “a surprisingly sexy spot for sipping.”
With the exception of Champagne, the Peasant wine list is wholly Italian, guiding guests from vermouth apéritifs and through the country, from north to south, with a jovially designed book dedicated to minimal intervention wines.
Italy’s one of the most exciting regions in the whole entire world
“We are 100% Italian, with the exception of Champagne,” Michael told the assembled crowd when he accepted his Gold Star on stage at the awards. “We only limit it to one producer, which we love with all of our heart: Cara Forgione loves Bérêche, so we keep Bérêche on the list! Going back on the Italian thing, we had a lot of great people in our category and I’ve got to recognise Josh Nadel, Robin Wright, Michael Dolinski – you guys are awesome. Just to be a part of the Italian family in New York, we really take it seriously and those guys are amazing. I learn from them every day.”
Later, Michael expanded further on the composition of his list:
“We really try to stay away from Burgundy and Spain, even though we love these wines so much; but we gotta stay true to what we are, and it makes us what we are. There’s a wine for everyone in Italy, and I think if you explore all of Italy, you’ll be very surprised by what they have to offer. It’s one of the most exciting regions in the whole entire world.”
With a bit of encouragement, it seems that Peasant’s guests needn’t miss the rest of the wine-producing world at all…
“Being in New York, a lot of people have some type of Italian [in them], or they think they’re Italian, right? So a lot of people are familiar with regions. And if they say, ‘Hey, my family’s from Campania, or my family’s from Calabria,’ they’re excited to drink the wine from where they come from. If people are Burgundy drinkers, we have the most amazing reductive or Burgundy-like wines. Bordeaux? It’s an easy thing to do with Super Tuscans. And if people just want to be excited because they’re real wine drinkers, we could give you the world at Peasant.”
In the Star Wine List of the Year New York awards this year, judge Yannick Benjamin called Peasant a “New York institution that continues to evolve without losing its soul. The wine list is imaginative and vibrant, showcasing a side of Italy that challenges convention and introduces New York drinkers to regions and expressions beyond the expected.”
What it means to win at Star Wine List of the Year
Michael and his team entered Star Wine List’s very first competition in New York, in 2023, which Krister remembers well – it made for a happy reunion this week, at the fourth edition of these awards.
“Just to be in the company of the best wine awards – and in the whole globe – is truly an honour. I couldn’t be more excited for myself and Peasant, and I appreciate you Krister,” said Michael.
“I think Star Wine List really is the top recognition for the world’s best wine lists – better than any awards that I’ve been a part of. And you can just see it from the finalists; not even the people that win Gold Stars, but the people that are in the room with you. It’s really something special, and it goes out to Star Wine List to recognise these people, not just in the big cities, but the entire world.”
So the all-important question: will Michael be joining us in southern Sweden this June, to compete with other regional Best Medium-Sized Lists in the Star Wine List of the Year Global Final 2026?
“I’ll be there! Can’t wait.”
In the meantime, the Peasant team headed off to “pop some Trentodoc” in celebration of their win. “It’s sparkling wine from the Dolomites. If somebody wants Champagne, we have that too, but we’re gonna drink the best of the best that Italy has to offer – all the Barolo and anything that somebody wants tonight.”
Congratulations to Peasant – see you in Sweden!
Click here to view all regional winners now competing in the Global Final, an event that will be hosted by Terra Skåne in June 2026.
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