Chasing unicorns in Copenhagen with Ketil Sauer
Ketil Sauer has new Red Stars for Copenhagen – and some serious advice for visitors to the Danish capital this summer. As he refreshes our city wine guide, he tells us why it’s the place to catch unicorn wines, why pricing matters, and how the natural wine war is finally showing signs of abating.
Sommelier and wine importer Ketil Sauer took on the role of Denmark Ambassador for Star Wine List in 2022. He is currently busy preparing for September’s Danish Sommelier Championship (a title he won in 2022) and renovating a small property in downtown Copenhagen that he hopes to turn into a bottle shop and tasting room.
Nonetheless, he’s still found time to get out and about, adding four new Red Stars to our Copenhagen guide for wine lovers seeking the best spots and updating the existing review to a fifth. If you’re at a loose end, he has a host of recommendations for other things to do as well.
Ketil’s also updating us on the Danish wine scene right now, which is seeing gastronomic pioneers popping up in cities aside from Copenhagen, and arguments about so-called ‘natural’ wine calming down… a bit.
Ketil’s Red Star updates
Bambi
Kong Hans Kælder
Restaurant Sanchez
Sydhavnens Vinbar
v.Lo Winebar
How has Copenhagen's wine scene evolved since you took on your role of ambassador for Star Wine List, in 2022?
“Copenhagen has changed towards the better. When I started as Denmark Ambassador, there were a lot of people in the natural vs conventional war – people were asking, “Is this wine organic?” and if the answer was yes, they’d reject it right away; or wine lovers turning away from classic areas since they didn't farm organically. Today there is a better understanding of both sides, and the quality is on focus.”
What's the most exciting thing about wine in Copenhagen?
“The amount of small producers from upcoming areas. I think a lot of winemakers like to be represented in Copenhagen since there is a large focus on gastronomy here. This sometimes helps with larger allocations and, as a wine drinker, you can find some unicorns.”
How does the city differ from the rest of the country in terms of its food and wine?
“Having an upbringing in the countryside, I noticed that Copenhagen is a trendmaker – the food you try in Copenhagen will be in the other major cities within five years and, within 10 years in the outer parts of Denmark. Today though, you will find trendmakers in other large cities as well.”
Where do you hang out?
“I like to go for Bib Gourmand places like Restaurant Rebel or Calma – the quality of bistro restaurants in Denmark is amazing.”
What's the wine of the summer?
“White wine – summer and whites are a great match. When it's hot – like, really hot – I think low viscosity is the best way to go: Muscadet, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc or Chenin blanc. Crisp and enjoyable!”
Are you noticing any particular trends emerging on wine lists or in service?
“The idea of ‘you have to buy a glass of white and a bottle of red’ is changing towards just enjoying a whole bottle of white.”
How can a restaurant or wine bar impress you?
“Keep prices real, even though the ‘black market’ is demanding unrealistic prices for wine. I prefer to go to places where they won't increase prices, but stick to the prices they acquired the wines for.”
Do you have any pet hates?
“Bad service. It's the worst. We have a saying: a good waiter can make up for a bad chef, but a good chef cannot make up for a bad waiter.”
What should visitors to Copenhagen be sure to do?
- The Little Mermaid
- The different castles: Rosenborg, Christiansborg, Amalienborg
- The Planetarium if you are interested in planets and with an interesting cinema
- Experimentarium if you want to ‘play around’ with physics
- Canal tour – if the weather is sunny, this is amazing, looking at the city from a boat
- Christiania is the “free town” inside Copenhagen – a great atmosphere, often with some interesting events
- Tivoli – the garden, even without the attractions is a great sight
- If you take a walk in Frederiksberg Have, you can enjoy the sight of the elephants in the zoo
- There are a lot of museums, depending on what you prefer, but I've been to the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art (a bit outside Copenhagen) multiple times because the special exhibition changes and I really enjoyed all of the trips
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