Kibun

Kibun occupies a former wine bar in Nishiazabu, now reworked into a compact 10-seat counter framed by volcanic stone, a blond hinoki wood counter, and a single Hiroshi Sugimoto photograph. The intimate space suits chef Ugo Perret-Gallix’s approach, which blends French technique with Japanese culinary logic.

The dishes showcase layered umami, and Perret-Gallix plays with texture and acidity throughout the tasting menu – think a Seiko-gani crab soup accented with spinach pesto and sencha (green tea), or venison finished over straw smoke and paired with eucalyptus, liquorice, and beetroot tagliatelle. His cooking is highly personal and expressive, with Japan and France in constant cultural dialogue.

Burgundy and southern France form the foundation of Kibun’s 200-bottle list, supplemented by Italy, Slovakia, and a well-considered range of Japanese producers, from classic Koshu to newer, small-scale wineries. Orange wines are a key category, chosen for their ability to support dishes built around herbs, spice, and gentle bitterness. Sommelier Yukine Furumoto favours wild-yeast styles with light saline notes to pair with the seafood-focused courses. Across the list, the emphasis is on bottles that “open up over the meal” – well suited to a restaurant where many guests dine alone or in pairs.