Sattlerhof – high-energy white wines from Südsteiermark

Sattlerhof has been ranked as one of the best wineries in Südsteiermark for many years. Here they cultivate their 33 hectares of biodynamic vineyards in challenging and harsh conditions – but the struggle makes it all worth it when the wine is in the bottle.

(Partner story with Premium Estates of Austria)

"Südsteiermark is a hard region for making wine, but a great area for drinking wine. The wines get great energy, freshness, liveliness and vibrancy," says Alex Sattler, one of the two winemaking brothers.

For decades, the Sattler family has been cultivating their vineyards in Gamlitz in search for improvement and perfection. Today, the family company is run by the two brothers Alex and Andreas. In 2013, they changed to organic farming, and in 2019 to biodynamic. There is mostly Sauvignon Blanc planted in the vineyards, together with some Chardonnay, here called Morillon.

"But we've been working without herbicides and pesticides already 20 years before 2013," says Alex Sattler.

The area where they have their vineyards, Südsteiermark in the south of Austria, on the border to Slovenia, has the most harsh conditions in all of Austria. The hillsides are very steep, there is a lot of rain, and you have to do everything by hand.

"All that influences the wines very much. We have a cool climate in our area, which gives wines with freshness and acidity."

When it comes to hazards, frost is not, as one might think, the biggest issue.

"But we are struggling with many other issues. Hail, mildew, fungus, risk of landslide – you name it. It needs a lot of sacrifice to make wine here. You have to spend extra time in the vineyards, extra time in the cellars, and much more time during harvest," says Alex.

At the same time, he emphasises that this amount of extra work is more than worth it:

"Yes, it is an area of sacrifice, but it also gives wines with great energy. A lot of freshness, energy, vibrancy."

How would you describe the Sattlerhof wine style to someone who hasn't tasted the wines?
"They are quite quiet wines, they are not shouting in your face. We have more of a marathon philosophy, rather than a sprinter. There's a great elegance, quietness, and precision in the wines."

Describe your winemaking philosophy?
"Of course, we are a biodynamic winery, and we try to work in a holistic approach. We work in very steep vineyards, so we leave the grass growing very high and try to keep as many leaves as possible on the vines. I'd like to compare our winemaking to preparing sashimi. It's about that precise cut, the knowledge of your produce and the perfect knife. Our idea is to produce wines that are not classical, not natural, but on that perfect spot right in between."

What do you think of the future of Südsteiermark as a wine region in general?
"Südsteiermark is seen as a great area for high-energy white wines. But I believe that the wines are far too cheap today, compared to how much work goes into the wines. There are only a few producers that actually make money in the area, most producers are small and family-owned wineries. I hope that the area will get the attention it deserves."

Anything you want to add?
"Südsteiermark is not only considered a great area for wine, but also one of the most beautiful tourist destinations. In our domain, for example, we also run two restaurants and a hotel. We want to give people a holistic experience when they come to visit.