“I believe in emotional pairing” says Seoul Ambassador Nathan Kim

By Rachel Fellows

Published 17-July-2025

Interview / South Korea

We have 13 new Red Stars in South Korea, including Star Wine List’s first listings in Busan. Ambassador Nathan Kim gives us the lowdown on the country’s wine scenes.

Nathan Kim has served as Star Wine List’s Seoul Ambassador since October 2023. The sommelier grew up between Japan and South Korea (living in Osaka, Seoul and the Chungcheong region in central South Korea), giving him “a culturally diverse and bilingual background from early on.” He now resides in Gangnam, Seoul – “the heart of Korea’s food and beverage scene,” as he calls it.

In his second major update, Nathan has added 13 new Red Stars and refreshed the profiles of 10 more. This new batch of recommendations includes four venues in Busan, on the southeastern tip of the country. The Star Wine List map is expanding!

Nathan tells us what the wine scenes look like in both Seoul and Busan, about his own pairing philosophy (crafting a “cinematic scene”), and, as the city heats up over summer, he also has a word of warning for sommeliers over wine temperatures...

Take a look at our improved guide to Seoul and explore all of Nathan’s new suggestions for wine lovers visiting South Korea, below.

What are you looking for in a Red Star venue?

“I always visit in person, and I listen to guests. Cleanliness and the sommelier's hospitality are paramount. To me, a Red Star venue isn't just a place that sells wine, it's a place that delivers a wine experience.”

What has the reception been to Star Wine List since you started your role as ambassador?

“At first, very few people knew about Star Wine List in Korea. But as I continued my activities, I began receiving direct questions from sommeliers, wine bars, and restaurant owners. Gradually, I noticed a shift – venues were not only curious, but also starting to aspire toward being featured.

“Given my existing presence in the industry, my role was never about personal visibility. I simply wanted to help the program succeed and offer consumers direct insights into venues that truly care about wine.”

How would you describe the food and wine scenes in Seoul and Busan right now? How do they differ?

“Seoul's food and wine scene is moving at a remarkable pace. [There is] a level of sophistication both in terms of cuisine and beverage program. Busan is more grounded in local culture. It has strong ties to seafood, of course, but also to a more relaxed, coastal style of dining. In short, Seoul is driving innovation, while Busan is nurturing a more organic, grassroots evolution of food and beverage culture. Both are essential, and both reflect the broader momentum Korea is experiencing today.

How does that vary from other cities or regions in South Korea?

“Outside of Seoul, wine culture tends to show an extreme polarity, either virtually nonexistent or ultra-high-end. Seoul, in contrast, reflects a mosaic of micro-cultures. Each ‘village’ or district has its own identity, and the way people engage with wine differs accordingly. It's a very important time right now, as we're beginning to see the coexistence of many different cultures and expressions within one city.”

Have you noticed any emerging trends on wine lists lately?

“A few years ago, the benchmark for a ‘good list’ in high-end venues was simple: Champagne and Burgundy dominance. Before that, Bordeaux Grand Gru era… But recently, we're seeing the emergence of more curated, narrative-driven selections. Not all great wines are present on every list, and that's the point. More and more, wine lists are becoming storytelling devices, guided by themes, committed to regional philosophy, or aligned with producers’ identities.”

What makes the perfect wine list?

“The perfect list is one that fully anticipates customer behaviour within that specific venue. Just because you eat a hamburger doesn't mean you MUST drink a Coke. Maybe today, you feel like a milkshake; maybe tomorrow, a glass of milk. True luxury means offering a thoughtful range of choices, and designing a list that respects the guest's potential desires – even those they didn't know they had.”

Do you have any pet hates on wine lists or in wine service?

“TEMPERATURE!!!! I won't revisit a place that can't serve wines at the correct temperature. Many people think ‘room temperature’ for red wine means the actual outdoor temperature, but with a Korean summer nearing 40 degrees, that logic fails. I wish more venues would treat the air conditioner setting you want, like 18 degrees, as the true ‘room temperature’ baseline.”

What would you like to see more of across Seoul's venues, wine-wise?

“I'd love to see more sommeliers who can be ‘storyteller,’ not just about the wine but about the moment in which it's being served. Beyond descriptors and technical sheets, I believe in emotional pairing, connecting deeply with a customer’s context, drawing on culture, history and humanity to craft a drink experience that feels like a cinematic scene.”

The wine lover's guide to Seoul.