Dreissigacker’s Wunderwerk: “it would have been a mistake not to do it”
Dreissigacker’s Wunderwerk range showcases the characteristics of two distinct vineyard locations in Germany’s Rheinhessen region, in Bechtheim and Westhofen. The three resulting cuvées have become known for their elegant, pure and concentrated style. Here, we take a look at what makes these premium wines so special.
Partner story with Dreissigacker.
The Wunderwerk wines of Weingut Dreissigacker have their roots in two distinct premium vineyard sites whose particular soil compositions give rise to wines with wholly individual – and sometimes unconventional – characters. These are blended together into three highly-prized wines.
Dreissigacker’s winery sits in the village of Bechtheim, to the west of the Rhine River. Winemaker Jochen Dreissigacker took over his family’s estate in 2001, converting the farming to organic principles in 2007 and working biodynamically since 2019. Today, Dreissigacker is one of Germany’s leading sustainable producers.
“Wunderwerk” translates as “wonder” and these wines, first released in 2017, are designed to give a clear taste of their origins, celebrating the nuances of vines growing in prime plots in Bechtheim itself and nearby Westhofen, a few miles to the south. Low yields and generous aging time allow for distinctive wines that don’t just tell the story of where they’re from, but do so with opulence and finesse.
In the vineyards
“While nature works its magic, we see ourselves merely as facilitators,” says Jochen. “We observe the development of the grapes and halve them at a carefully chosen moment. This deliberate yield reduction channels the distinct characteristics of each vineyard’s conditions into just a few select berries. This results in wines that unmistakably showcase their specific origins through their unique aromatic profiles.”
Grapes in the Bechtheim vineyards ripen in abundance thanks to plentiful warmth and light, developing expressive, multi-layered and powerful aromas. By contrast, the harsher microclimate of Westhofen dictates a slower rhythm – defying cool winds, the vines here must draw strength steadily from the mineral-rich soil, crafting wines with precise and delicate structures.
Marrying masterpieces
Asked why he brings such distinct wines together into the Wunderwerk blends, Jochen replies that it is a matter of “intuition – the expectation of birthing something unexpected. The promise of transcendence captured in liquid form. And the result proves that it would have been a mistake not to do it.
“What once grew separately, we allow to mature together. Over two years on the lees, a bold encounter transforms into unity; after several years in the bottle, the wines develop an inseparable depth and a completely new entity is born. Had we not dared this fusion, the world would have been deprived of something extraordinary.”
The wines
At the end of a generous maturation period, Jochen and his team create Wunderwerk Grauburgunder, which is “not striving for an easy balance, but draws its harmony from heterogeneous aromas.” A Pinot Gris made from vines up to 70 years old, it is matured solely in tonneaux barrels and boasts exceptional aging potential.
The nuanced Wunderwerk Riesling is fermented with natural yeasts, with 85% aged in stainless steal and the remainder in large wooden casks – it “captivates with its intricate finesse.”
And then there is “a sublime, complete red wine” in the form of the refined Wunderwerk Spätburgunder, a Pinot Noir from younger vines kept at significantly reduced yields. Dreissigacker's flagship red, its grapes come exclusively from the Geyersberg vineyard, which are aged in oak barrels for notable power and presence.
“The three wines of the Wunderwerk collection are enigmatic creations that demand focus,” says Jochen. “They invite conversation. Yet, they are difficult to put into words. Just like a wonder.”
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