Dreissigacker Einzigacker 2023: oak-aged Weissburgunder of opulence yet balance
In 2005, winemaker Jochen Dreissigacker had the idea of ageing his family estate’s Pinot Blanc in the style of a white Burgundy. And so we have Dreissigacker Einzigacker: Weissburgunder from 50-year-old vines aged in 500-litre tonneaux. We learn about this textural, powerful yet nuanced wine, as the 2023 vintage hits the market.
The Dreissigacker winery, helmed by Jochen Dreissigacker since 2001, is located in the Rheinhessen village of Bechtheim. The estate covers 45 hectares split into six organic and biodynamic vineyards surrounding Bechtheim and Westhofen, and has become known for its lively and complex white wines – and a penchant for experimentation.
The Einzigacker stems from two very particular sites, both with a vine age of at least 50 years old: the Weissburgunder vines of Bechtheimer Geyersberg are planted on south-facing limestone slopes with a loess top soil, offering warmth and concentration, while those from the north-facing Bechtheimer Stein provide freshness.
Rigorous yield reduction ensures perfectly ripened clusters (up to 60% of each cluster is removed in a process known as ‘halving the grapes’), protected from excessive sunlight or rain by fastidious canopy management. This was especially important in the sunny 2023 vintage, to preserve Dreissigacker’s trademark crisp style. As such, the harvest took place earlier than in cooler years, resulting in a concentrated wine that retains refinement nonetheless.
Gentle handling at cool temperatures assists this elegance, with grapes crushed by foot and rested before crushing. Spontaneous fermentation took place in 500-litre oak barrels, with the wine left to mature on the lees for at least 18 months, leading to Einzigacker’s distinctive style: subtly toasted notes and spice met with a powerful structure and, yet, finesse.
Dreissigacker Einzigacker is a wine of unmistakable character and remarkable aging potential.
RRP: €98 EUR.
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