Les Arlots

The fiefdom of chef Thomas Brachet, adjoining his cave à manger Billili – whose list is equally worth your attention – Les Arlots belongs to that breed of bistros on which time seems to have no hold, until they become, almost in spite of themselves, true institutions.

On the programme, dishes as generous as you'd hope – including a legendary saucisse-purée, award-winning oeufs mayo and a formidable tête de veau sauce gribiche – sit alongside a liquid list of over a hundred (visible) references of finely crafted natural wines featuring, in particular, great names from Beaujolais, the Loire Valley, the Rhône and the Jura that are increasingly hard to find elsewhere, impervious to passing trends. Here you'll encounter the stalwart icons of French natural wine, sometimes with impressive vintage depth, as well as beers and spirits that extend the time spent at table still further.

The ultimate comfort address – and without doubt the one we'd recommend for initiating the most apprehensive into natural wine, in the hope of a lasting reconciliation.