Brasserie l’Odéon Genève

L’Odéon is something of an institution in Geneva, with a history dating back to 1903, and yet its recent change in ownership has seen a complete overhaul of the wine list, making this brasserie both a new and old favourite all at once. The excitement among the staff at this uptick in vinous activity is palpable and there is an understated style to the charming, attentive experience that guests can expect.

A stripy awning and flashes of bottle green lead the way from a quiet Geneva street, close to the Old Town and not too far from the river, into this bright, light and welcoming dining room. There’s an old-world feel despite a clean aesthetic, and endearing touches such as the wine bottle candle holders placed on each table – memories of special pours, laden in wax. The space is larger than you might first think, leading to a second dining room further back with its own bar, and a private dining space.

Before you get to the wine, you are faced by more green: a presentation table filled with Chartreuse. There are bottles of every size and type, and the liqueur has its own feature up on the bar itself; a Chartreuse and tonic is a popular aperitif.

Showcased in golden picture frames on each table, a succinct by-the-glass list (just three or four per colour) includes house wines not just chosen by the brasserie but bottled for it too, by Domaine de Beauvent – located barely 20 minutes away, in Bernex, they are referred to as “our friends” by the team. As is pleasingly common in the city, local wines get pride of place, listed directly after the sparkling section (nicely flecked with grower Champagnes) and organised by grape variety. The selection has clearly been very carefully chosen, is a manageable size, and well organised, making it easy to navigate.

France gets second billing, featuring select regions such as Burgundy, Alsace, the Loire and Jura, and Bordeaux for the reds. Wines from elsewhere are, again, picked in a pointed manner, including expected locations such as Spain and Italy, plus a few interesting additions from the likes of Japan and Armenia. Prices are sensible, with plenty of options below 100 Euros but the odd chance to splurge on something from a special producer (you’ll spot famous names included without fanfare), maybe with a bit of age. It is served swiftly, honouring formality but with a smile.

The food, equally, lauds local and seasonal ingredients. Traditional brasserie dishes are presented with impressive elegance – and flair. Things arrive quickly, are served carefully, and then you are left to enjoy with ease. Regulars shake hands with the chef, who occasionally hovers in the corner to check that people look happy, and the space has a quiet energy, blending working lunches with gossipy catch-ups.

Even though Brasserie l’Odéon is a warm and relaxed sort of place, you’ll end up feeling like you’ve had a big treat.