Torrence O’Haire on Chicago’s “healthy balance of chill”

By Rachel Fellows

Published 24-July-2025

Interview / Chicago

Summer in the Windy City never tasted so good, with 15 new Red Stars from Chicago Ambassador Torrence O’Haire. He tells us about his latest recommendations.

Sommelier and former chef Torrence O’Haire has been reporting from his home of Chicago for Star Wine List since September 2023. He moved to the city with his husband in the spring of 2016, “with enough time to get a feel for the wine culture before the pandemic disruption,” he says, and is a hearty champion of its food and wine offering. As he expands our city guide, we ask him how things are looking for wine lovers keen to experience all that Chicago has to offer.

“Chicago's dining scene has been world renowned for decades but, in terms of recent evolution, I think the wine scene – to its credit – takes itself a little less seriously. That's not to say we pull any punches; we have some of the world’s most skilled professionals and most lauded beverage programs at every level. That said, it’s far too easy for the wine world to lean into its own self-importance a bit, which tends to dissuade new fans, clients, and colleagues from entering our world. Chicago is evolving in a manner that retains its pedigree, but tempers it with a sense of community, a recognition of hospitality, and a healthy balance of ‘chill.’”

Scroll down for Torrence’s take on the coolest neighbourhoods, the drink of the summer, and what’s happening with the natural wine “fad.”

You're a big advocate for Chicago's wine scene – what's the most exciting thing about it right now?

“This summer, we’ve seen a really successful increase of what I like to think of as ‘relaxed-but-quality’ places. Sometimes we want the Master-Somm, cellar-dining experience, but sometimes we just want to drink a bottle of something cold and cheap in a tank top on a patio, on one of Chicago's famously beautiful summer afternoons. However, that doesn’t mean we want to drink boring, bottom-shelf wines. Plenty of places have earnestly leaned in to cheap, fun bottles, wine-based happy hours, patio specials, and so on – offering casual fun but, critically, not skimping on the quality. It's not only a great way to diversify the wine-enjoyment experience in Chicago, but also makes it easier and more inviting for wine novices to try something new when it's served cold and cheap on a sunny sidewalk.”

What's the one thing visitors to Chicago should be sure to do?

“One thing? Are you crazy? One has to get to the beach, experience the Chicago Architecture Tour, plus visit the Lurie Gardens and the Art Institute; martinis and oysters at Queen Mary, showtunes night at Sidetrack, then hit the Green Mill for live jazz. We’ll call that “one mandatory incredible Chicago day.”

What's the drink of the summer?

“G+T vibes, all the way.”

Do you have any favourites among your new Red Stars?

“I’ve been dropping by Anfora Wine Merchants regularly, as it's such a great spot to end an afternoon bike ride with a bottle of something nerdy and excellent on the sidewalk – especially with snacks from next door's five-star butcher shop, Carnivore. Brut rosé and a fried chicken sandwich, anyone?”

What are the coolest regions in town?

“The most exciting new spots in Chicago have been opening in either the neighbourhoods out west, or on the south side. Bronzeville is becoming a really cool area to explore, with some excellent bars, restaurants, and wine shops, all still fairly under the radar.”

Where do you live and what's your typical wine hangout?

“I live in Oak Park, out west, but work downtown right on Michigan Avenue, so I have the luxury of having the whole city to drive around for an after-work refreshment. Because I work in wine, it’s exceedingly easy just to open a bottle and sit in my garden, so to get me out ‘on the town,’ I'm much more interested in hanging out somewhere unique and fun, with great snacks and an array of drinks I might not have picked for myself. Ultimately, my decision is always based on ‘if I can just get this at my house, why am I hanging out here?’”

How's the natural wine scene looking in Chicago right now? You mentioned that it was on the rise back in 2023...

“Full disclosure: I’m a natural wine sceptic (putting it very diplomatically). I think there has been a natural adjustment to the original fad, where there is absolutely still interest, but less patience with places or products that simply aren't very good. ‘Low-intervention’ winemaking is fine, so long as it's not an excuse to overlook flawed wines, and much of the trend-seeking public seems to agree with me.”

How can a restaurant or wine bar impress you?

“I always come back to what I think of as a holistic mindset when judging new spots: tell me clearly what you're trying to do, and then I’ll consider how well you’re doing what you told me. For example, when a new restaurant calls themselves “exciting modernist American fusion,” and the wine list is all overpriced grocery-store plonk that clearly came with financial strings from a single macro-supplier, I consider that program a failure in regards to what they said they were trying to do. Conversely, that “fun corner sandwich shop” that happens to have an unusually good selection of local beer and rosé? You’re exactly what I’d hope to find, and providing above and beyond what you said you’d attempt. Top marks. Ultimately, effort (or lack thereof) is obvious. When you put effort in (or hire someone to put the effort in), it’s truly not that difficult to create somewhere lovely.”

Do you have any pet hates on wine lists or in service?

“Poorly organised wine lists – it doesn't matter how you organise it, it just matters that it is organised. When a list is grouped into random poetic categories that make no sense to anyone but the person that wrote it, I’ll just drink beer.

“Also, stop serving your reds too warm. Ew.”

What would you like to see more of?

“Confidence in the clientele. For every restaurant serving Falanghina by the glass, there are five that “could never sell anything other than New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc because people will hate it.” People like to be taken care of, and like to try new things. It might take some cleverness and creativity to get it rolling, but “if you pour it, they will come,” as I'm pretty sure that movie quote goes. Ultimately, if you can't sell people Falanghina, that’s a you problem, not a them problem.”

Explore the wine guide to Chicago.