Star Wine List launches in Serbia with ambassador Vuk Vuletić: “a true sommelier is a storyteller”
Star Wine List’s newest guide highlights the best wine spots in Serbia. Meet our new ambassador, renowned sommelier Vuk Vuletić, who is kicking off his role with 16 Red Stars for the region.
Vuk Vuletić has twice been named Best Sommelier of Serbia (in 2017 and 2023), has twice represented his country at the Best Sommelier in the World competition, is the Best Sommelier in the Balkans, and has appeared as a guest competitor and judge at competitions around the world. This November, he will compete to become Best Sommelier in Europe, Africa and the Middle East, in his hometown of Belgrade.
It was during apprenticeships in restaurants whilst studying gastronomy and hospitality at university that Vuk had his first encounters with wine service. He signed up for a sommelier course with the Serbian Sommelier Association (SERSA) as soon as the opportunity arrived, and got his first job in a newly opened restaurant in Belgrade. “It featured more than 100 entries on the wine list,” he says. “The memories stick with me, as I was gazing through that wine list, thinking that it would be impossible for me to learn all those wines, names and grape varieties…”
Vuk is now Manager and Head Sommelier at Pinòt restaurant in Belgrade, which he opened with his friend Miloš Perovič in October 2022. This year, he has become a father and, what’s more, found time to curate a list of 16 wine bars and restaurants across Serbia for the Star Wine List audience. In his words, he is “juggling” rather a lot, but is excited to introduce guests to his first instalment of “amazing” venues. These include Kano restaurant in Kragujevac (“extended wine lists with many entries and vintages almost impossible to find in the current market”), Atelje vina Šapat (“by far the best wine list in Serbia”) and Puter bistro (showing “how far can you go with pure and honest love for the profession”).
With ideas already in mind for his next update, expect to hear plenty more from Vuk over time. We asked him a few questions to mark the launch of our Serbia Stars.
Explore our guide to Belgrade, here.
How would you describe the food and wine scene in Serbia?
“The Serbian food and wine scene is improving every year, as we have numerous restaurant openings, and new wine bars and shops being opened almost every month. This is very good for the industry, as the pace is quite fast, and the evolution over the last decade is more than evident.
“Restaurant chefs are using more and more local ingredients, following old-school preparation techniques and bringing back to life some forgotten autochthonous dishes with a long history. Being part of this re-invented Serbian gastronomy makes me proud, as I think we're really on the right path to success.
“Wine production is growing as well and we're witnessing, with each new vintage, more terroir-driven wines and high quality grapes. This sends a message through each wine, about its vintage, its climate conditions, and the winemaker's signature.”
How can a restaurant or wine bar impress you?
“What impresses me the most is dedication, energy and passion for wine within each hospitality employee, whether an assistant waiter or a manager and owner. That passion is crucial in providing high quality service. I often compare doing quality service to playing defence in basketball: in both cases it's mostly a matter of will and motivation, together with know-how of course.
“Other than that, I like to see restaurants and bars offering something new. Whether it is a wine I've never heard of, or a dish I have never seen before, new ideas for me are vital and play a major role in setting the quality bar higher for the entire industry, which is the only way for us all to improve and push forward.”
What have been the emerging trends of recent years?
“1. More wines by the glass being offered to restaurant guests, boosting the sales of both Serbian and international wines, and allowing the opportunity to try several wines during a meal.
“2. Smaller food menus, but better focus on the ingredients – only fresh, and the best quality are musts in a city where competition is numerous.
“3. Improved communication and more recommendations from waiters and other restaurant staff to guests, storytelling about the wines, about the food – both ingredient-sourcing and methods of preparation. Guests demand more information on what they are consuming, and so far the best restaurants are successfully delivering.”
I compare quality service to playing defence in basketball
What regions/styles of wine are most popular?
“The local scene is very strong, with numerous Serbian wineries improving their quality with each new vintage. Expect to find anywhere from 30-60% of Serbian wines in every wine list, from short to extended. Dominant regions are Fruška Gora (home of Grašac, a regional indigineous variety, but also well suited for excellent Chardonnay in both Old and New World styles, warmer climate Pinot Noir and fruit-driven Merlot), Šumadija (a hotspot for expressive New World-style Sauvignon Blanc and juicy Merlot), Negotinska Krajina (due to lots of sun hours, here you'll probably find the best Cabernet Sauvignon terroir in the country) and there are the regions of Župa and Toplički, where you can find the Serbian indigenous grape variety Prokupac, which is very spicy, with good tannic structure – a perfect partner for local cuisine.
“From the international side, both Italy and France have strong influence, with Tuscany and Bordeaux leading the scene. Recent trends see Burgundy consumption on the rise, as well as New World wines, especially California, Australia and Argentina.”
What makes a good wine list?
“A good wine list must be made within the house, with little or no external influence. The main goal must be guest satisfaction and, in order to provide that, you must provide choice. Balance is one of the key factors, as you need both to have some classic names that ring a bell while reading the list, but also provide a number of small, lesser-known wineries, and introduce them and tell their story to your dear guests. A true sommelier is, in a way, a storyteller, who is transmitting the winemaker's story to their guests, getting them to know and appreciate the quality and hard work given to producing our beloved grape-based beverage, wine.
“Longer does not always mean better. Length is, on other hand, very appreciated when it comes to wines by the glass, as it is really crucial today to offer guests at least 15 different wines by the glass. Venues that offer more then 20 wines by the glass show, in a way, that they care more, and that they're willing to take the risk and go the extra mile to ensure their guests’ overall satisfaction.”
What are the challenges for wine professionals and hospitality venues in Serbia?
“Serbian restaurants face several challenges, including escalating operational expenses, intense competition, and seasonal fluctuations in demand. Additionally, issues with the complex regulations, a lack of staff training, and the need for digital adaptation further complicate operations. Focusing on innovation and enhancing service quality will be crucial for overcoming these obstacles.”
Where are the wine hotspots?
“Hotspots vary, from the old city centre and newly-built Belgrade Waterfront, where tourist concentration peaks (see Cveće Zla and Decanter wine bar), to urban, cosy Old Town neighbourhoods (Restaurant 27, Puter, Legat 1903, Tata Mata), and finishing with New Belgrade, which is a hotspot for business on every level, in almost every field, with headquarters of numerous Serbian and foreign companies (Pinot, Jerry, Magellan and Gig).
“Last, but not the least, we have the beautiful Sava riverside in New Belgrade, where people go with their families to escape the city's vibrant energy, and enjoy a family walk or a pleasant meal and glass of wine in one of the many restaurants that are floating on the Sava River (Suvenir and Corso).
“For a weekend getaway, food and wine lovers usually choose to visit wineries that are within an hour or two’s drive, and many of these have built restaurants within them so they can provide a full experience for their guests (see Atelje vina Šapat).”
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