Six new Red Stars in Piedmont to celebrate truffle season – an update from ambassador Ulrika Ferlin
Piedmont Ambassador Ulrika Ferlin has added six new Red Stars to our guide. We get an update from the Swedish sommelier and educator on the northern Italian wine scene – just in time for truffle season.
“I would say trends are continuing a bit in the same direction as last year,” says Ulrika. “Young and even quite newly-started winemakers are taking up more and more space, which I think is really impressive.
“Around Langhe, Roero and the town of Alba, younger Nebbiolo-based wines like Nebbiolo d’Alba or even Barolo, Barbaresco and Roero are popular (also since there are not many older vintages available anymore). It has become more of a standard to drink wine shortly after release rather than to wait. I also see more of the simpler wines being made with less oak influence and in a more fruit-driven style.
“Wine lists have always been influenced by the nearby wine production area, which comes quite naturally, and it is still like this to a certain extent. But in northern Italy, and Piedmont especially, there is a growing interest and passion for French wines from classic origins, especially Champagne and Burgundy.”
How was the summer in the vineyards?
“This year stood out a bit: the last few years have been tricky, with a lot of droughts, but this year the summer started with rain and fresher temperatures, so once the heat peak arrived in July, which has become a new normal, there were at least some water reserves in the ground.
“The rest of the summer offered sunny and warm weather. The vines looked healthy but also required a bit of extra work in the vineyard for many of the growers, but the results look promising!”
How did you come across these new venues that you've added?
“I have gone to them many times throughout the years – either invited with wine friends or previous coworkers. In the end, the wine world is pretty small, and everyone likes to share a good place and experience!”
Do you have any particular favourites among them?
“All of them! Well, since I am not Piedmontese nor Italian, I can never get enough of the view of the rolling hills – it’s always a breathtaking beauty. From this year's selection, Palás Cerequio definitely stands out on that point: it's priceless to have a glass of Barolo Cerequio looking out over that vineyard at the same time. But of course, I can't help but like hidden gems like La Coccinella up in the Alta Langa hills.”
What is your favourite food-wine pairing during truffle season?
“Nothing beats a plate of the local dish ‘tajarin con tartufo bianco,’ meaning tajarin, which is the local pasta, with butter and freshly sliced white Alba truffle – and a bottle of Barolo. Richness and umami meeting tannins, acidity and elegant red fruit: yum!”
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