Malta Ambassador Fabien Etienne adds four new Red Stars
French sommelier Fabien Etienne has reported for Star Wine List from his adopted home of Malta since May 2024. As he adds four Red Stars to our guide, we get the latest from the island.
It’s 18 months since we published Star Wine List’s first Maltese listings, chosen by Advanced Sommelier Fabien Etienne, who has lived on the island since 2017. Since then, he says that “restaurateurs have noticed a clear shift in their clientele, with more guests showing genuine interest in curated wine lists and the stories behind them.”
Fabien lives in Mgarr, northern Malta, and can always be drawn in by the “welcoming atmosphere” of old favourite Bottega Frawli. Otherwise, he recommends that guests visit the capital, Valletta (“vibrant, cultural, and beautiful”) and the olden capital of Mdina (“walking through its timeless streets is like stepping back in history”).
Read more from Fabien below, and explore our guide to the best wine spots in Malta.
Fabien's new Red Stars
Have you noticed any developments in Malta's wine scene over the past 18 months?
“One of the biggest changes has been the increase in wine importers, which has made the market very competitive for the hospitality industry. On one hand, this is excellent, as it gives us access to a wider selection and encourages diversity on wine lists. On the other hand, it can be challenging for restaurants to navigate so many suppliers and keep their lists balanced and sustainable.”
You've previously mentioned a leaning towards sustainably produced wines in Malta – has that continued, and what does it look like on wine lists?
“Yes, the trend has continued to grow. A few years ago, Maltese wines were not widely embraced, even locally. But thanks to producers who have invested heavily in quality and sustainability, we now see excellent Maltese wines featured proudly on many restaurant lists. The perception has shifted significantly – today there is no hesitation or stigma around drinking local wines, which is a big step forward for the island’s wine culture.”
What are you looking for in a Red Star venue?
“For me, it comes down to service and knowledge. A Red Star venue should demonstrate a real commitment to developing and refining their wine program, ensuring staff are confident in their recommendations and that the list is both thoughtful and dynamic.”
What's been the drink of the summer?
“Rose! Without a doubt, rosé. I’m not usually a big rosé drinker, but with the heat this summer, I found myself enjoying it more than usual. Miraval was my choice.”
Do you have any pet hates on a wine list?
“I tend to be quite particular about two things: missing vintages on the wine list and a lack of regional diversity. A wine list should reflect not only quality but also variety, and details like vintages are essential for transparency and for guests to make informed choices.
How can a restaurant or bar impress you?
“The first thing I always notice is the glassware. For me, the right wine glass is fundamental to the experience. Restaurateurs who invest in proper glassware immediately show that they take wine seriously and care about offering their guests the best possible experience.”
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