The Palmerston

A restaurant and bakery in the city centre, The Palmerston is open from 9am for coffee and pastries, then onto lunch and dinner. Working closely with local farmers, growers and fishermen, the hearty, wine-friendly European menu changes daily according to whatever is in season.

The wine list is where things get especially interesting, making this one of the top lists in the UK for a restaurant of this size and style. But with co-owner and FOH wino James Snowdon boasting Hotel du Vin, Bubbledogs and the Harwood Arms on his CV it’s hardly a surprise.

By the glass offerings provide superb value and interest, with wines from Hungary, Greece and Portugal. Opening with over 40 sparkling, it’s clear from the get-go they’re serious and passionate about wine. There’s an eclectic well priced sub-£70 range from outside Champagne, with the remainder an impressive collection of Grower Champagnes, reaching an apex with some big names with bottle age. Split between NV and vintage, the mark ups across the board are enticingly low.

Reds and whites (~250 in total) are listed simply (and helpfully) in price order, with no shocking surges in price. Wines are predominantly European with the odd special appearance from South Africa and the USA. Small, sustainable, quality vignerons lead the way but it’s not the least bit dogmatic. They have ‘wine from all walks of life’ and look further down the list and you’ll find classic names and back vintages -1990s Super Tuscans and Second Growths, old Rioja and noughties Barolo. Large formats and an excellent run of sweet/fortified (lots to try by the glass here too) finish things off in style.