Welcome to the “era of the neighbourhood wine bar” with Chicago Ambassador Torrence O’Haire

By Rachel Fellows

Published 03-October-2024

Interview / Chicago

Star Wine List’s Chicago Ambassador, sommelier, writer and teacher Torrence R. O’Haire, has added 15 must-visit locations to our guide. He is particularly heartened by the breadth of style, price point and even geographical location of the current wine hot spots, making Chicago, in his words, “the most exciting dining scene in the country.”

Thank you for the update! With 15 new Red Stars, tell us, what's going on in Chicago at the moment?

“Chicago continues to be what I consider the most exciting dining scene in the country right now, with new restaurants of all levels opening frequently, and old standards still maintaining their quality.

“That’s a big statement, I know, but I stand by the fact that, unlike some of the other ‘best food cities,’ Chicago succeeds in offering incredible wine and food experiences in every neighbourhood, and at every price point and style. Sure, you can dine well in NYC or London if you’re downtown and have $1,000 to blow, but in Chicago it’s always easy to find a great meal with a great glass with no restrictions.”

What emerging trends have you noticed in the food and wine scene lately?

“One thing I think Chicago is leaning into with skill is a general raising of expectations. The restaurant craze had become a little less fervent (dare we say careless?), and now diners and restaurateurs alike recognise that it’s not enough to be ‘yet another’ of something – you have to offer something special: a different cuisine, a unique style, an unexpected wine list, etc. Chicago has plenty of Napa-Cab steakhouses and Barolo-library Italian spots – the trend now is to show off what else it can do, and the guests are supporting that with celebration.”

What's most popular among wine drinkers right now?

“I’m sure that my opinion is slanted considering I work in Italian wine specifically, but I find people are much more interested in the breadth of Italian offerings than ever before. It takes zero effort for someone to be convinced to try Cesanese when they request a Chianti, and guests are excited for the opportunity.

“There’s also a consistent trend toward subtler wines overall, too – high-acid whites, aromatic reds. Guests are more and more appreciating food-friendly wines, and much less often asking for the “biggest Cab you’ve got.”

“There’s also a huge trend of younger generations getting into wine with a delightful amount of curiosity. The new era of diners wants to understand and explore, often much more excitedly than the old guard. This translates into sales trends that some might see as dips in the wine market, or a lack of interest in younger generations in wine purchasing, but those of us on the floor see a more nuanced version: they want to drink wine and learn about the world through those bottles; they’re just much less interested in spending tons of money on limited-edition collectors’ bottles or the staid styles of wine their parents drank.”

What are the up-and-coming wine areas within the city?

“Reflecting on my earlier soapbox-moment, I think Chicago is really effectively trying to include the wider city in its wine and dining scene, so mine’s a bit of a non-answer to the question: everywhere.

“Great restaurants aren’t just downtown or in the ‘chic and unaffordable’ suburbs. Head west toward Humboldt Park and there are all sorts of great new spots to check out. More and more this is becoming the “era of the neighbourhood wine bar,” which is full of excellent surprises on corners across the quieter parts of the city. Lucky us.”

Do you have any particular favourites among your new additions?

“I was always taught not to play favourites, but I’m writing this from the patio at Bar Parisette right now, so...”