Bar Parisette

I find that in a food-centric city like Chicago, opening a new French restaurant is a challenge. On the one hand, yet another steak-tartare-and-garlic-escargot offering is reaching maximum capacity to the point of ‘jumping the shark,’ no matter how cute the new place is. On the other hand, ‘French-inspired’ wanton creativity that doesn’t in any way read as French food (aside from being overly fussy) is almost always disappointing. Let’s hope that future French spots take a lesson from Bar Parisette’s perfect balance on the tightrope of classic vs. modern.

The beautifully designed corner spot recently opened in Logan Square to the applause of local diners, and it truly succeeds at creating a modern version of the French bistrot. The food is creative but uncomplicated, easily recognisable as French bistrot cuisine but with a deftly-handled update so as to make it interesting again. The service is friendly and fun, and the casual vibe makes it as valuable as a date night location as it is an after-work stop.

The all-French wine list reveals the skill of local wine expert Matthew Sussman, whose expertise is well known around the Chicago restaurant scene. This program is clearly curated by a pro. Considering it’s not exactly a huge list, it offers exceptional range, interesting modern options, excellent prices, and a few collector-level high-end bottles for those ‘in the know.’