Vino Las Vegas! Our newest ambassador on why Vegas is more than the Strip
Today, we launch our guide to the best wine bars and restaurants in Las Vegas with new ambassador Will Costello MS.
Imagine Las Vegas, and spangly visions of casinos and fountains and big, bright lights will very likely flash through your mind. Or celebrity residencies. Or mammoth stadiums. But stray beyond the infamous Strip, and there is a burgeoning wine culture well worth exploring.
“Because we have this tourist-driven economy, many people think that Las Vegas is just the Strip,” says Will Costello MS, Las Vegas resident and Star Wine List’s newest ambassador.
“However, so much excitement around the food and wine scene can be found when you venture into the neighbourhoods. Thankfully, most of the tourists are not doing that, so it allows us to keep our local food scene a bit of a secret. I guess I am letting the secret out right now!”
Will has lived in Las Vegas since 2012, moving from his hometown of San Diego to take on the role of Wine Director at the Mandarin Oriental. He became a Master Sommelier in 2015 and now works for a software company, helping businesses to recommend the right wine, beer, spirits and food to their consumers via AI.
Will has a true passion for Las Vegas – “I don’t think I ever want to live anywhere else” – and kicks off his ambassador duties by awarding 18 Red Stars across the city. Explore these restaurants and bars in our Las Vegas guide, and discover how he went about selecting them below.
Welcome to the team. Tell us, how do you find the best places to drink wine?
“Generally I try to ask friends – I tell them the rough price point I like, the environment I’m looking for and the style of wines that I typically like to drink. I feel like Star Wine List is just an extension of my friend group.”
How would you describe the food and wine culture in Las Vegas right now?
“Las Vegas has always had an amazing chef-driven culture but most of that was always on the Strip, backed by the fortunes of the casinos. Over time however, many of those great chefs ended up moving, and opening their own restaurants in the neighbourhoods. It makes it a more vibrant culture for the 2.4 million people who live in Las Vegas as well as an exciting treat to see something away from the big casinos for our 44 million visitors per year.”
What have been the biggest changes to the city’s wine scene in recent years?
“We’ve never really had a wine bar scene here, and now we have local sommeliers, who realise that they can do their talent justice by sharing a casual experience for locals in the neighbourhoods. One of them [Editor’s note: Garagiste Wine Room] was even named as a James Beard finalist recently. I never thought that would happen in Las Vegas.”
What emerging trends have you noticed recently?
“Thankfully, wines from emerging regions are becoming popular. Even though most of the general population knows the major grapes, like Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Riesling, etc., the fact that many of these new off-Strip restaurants have educated professionals, allows them to be creative with the options. I tend to think it keeps pricing fair as well for the local diners.”
Which are the most in-demand regions/styles across lists at the moment?
“It’s so funny to see that Portuguese white wines are making their way onto so many lists. Even the expensive ones! I also like the fact that lesser-known Italian wines like those from Sardinia and Sicily are trending locally as well. But there will always be a place for the big, pricey Californian and French wines.”
What are you looking for in a wine list?
“I want 30 to 50 options at the average price point. I want those to generally fit something where I could stop in and not worry about spending on a Tuesday night. Sure, there should be some big bottles to splurge on, but normal, everyday pricing is important.
“Second, I really think that a wine list that offers a bit of everything tends to be the most enjoyable. I don’t need seven different oaked Chardonnays from either California or Burgundy. Have two that taste great, but also have a wide variety of different unoaked whites, as well as new explorations from all around the world. Just because there are Chardonnays at 10 different price points that all taste 'similar' doesn’t mean you need to have them on the wine list all at once.”
How can a restaurant impress you?
“The most important part about service at a restaurant is being expedient. If I want to order a bottle, then have it cold or at the right temperature, have your glasses polished, ask about niceties like a decanter and let me get on with it. Of course, the guest is going to share with the staff how much interaction they are looking for but, in my opinion, being 'Johnny-on-the-spot' and quick about things is the highest form of hospitality.”
Do you have any pet peeves when it comes to a venue’s wine service or offering?
“I do not abide by natural wine lists, just for the sake of being natural. I know there are hundreds of amazing wines made in the style in the world, but there are also thousands of poor examples. If someone just places a natural wine on their list without it tasting amazing, they immediately lose my respect.”
Tell us about your experience with the MS exams.
“I passed in 2015 after an eight-year journey. I’d passed all three of the first stages on my first try, but was hung up on tasting and service for four years at the Master level. I feel grateful for not passing on my first try, however, because I learned just so much more over the years of studying than I would have if I was some sort of wunderkind.
“I’ve done many hard things in my life, including climbing some of the largest mountains in the world, completing an Ironman triathlon, and other difficult feats; the Master exam was something I would beat as well.
“If I learned anything, it is that failing is perfectly fine, and makes us much stronger.”
Discover Will's favourite haunts in our guide to the best wine places in Las Vegas.
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