Grimal’s winning wine list is “a living document” says Anders Vendelbo
Copenhagen gastropub Grimal officially has the Best Short List in the world, after winning at last month’s Star Wine List of the Year International Final. Owner Anders Vendelbo talks to us about inspiring young sommeliers, why English food is underrated, and Copenhagen’s natural wine scene.
Anders Vendelbo, owner and sommelier of Copenhagen’s Grimal, has carved out a niche for those who crave depth, diversity, and discovery in their wines – in a small format. After winning the Best Short List category at Star Wine List of the Year Denmark for two consecutive years, Grimal has now secured a prestigious international Gold Star at our International Final, making theirs the Best Short List in the world.
“Crafting a compelling short wine list can be more challenging than creating an extensive one,” said Valeria Gamper after judging this year’s competition. “This is a clever, cool and concise wine list that showcases an exciting range – from classic producers to emerging trends – with something to delight every palate. Very appealing!”
Grimal is the sister restaurant to Cleo, Polly and Frank, the latter a well-regarded Copenhagen spot known for high standards and a wide-ranging wine selection. “We wanted something more intimate with Grimal,” says Vendelbo. “A bistro where people sit close, enjoy an affordable meal, and still have access to a thoughtfully curated, dynamic wine list.”
Unlike its older sibling, Grimal’s list intentionally avoids repeating producers or sticking to the usual Burgundy-Piedmont-Tuscany trio. “We aim for global diversity – different vintages, styles, and producers, all on a tight list. We want this to be the place where young sommeliers go, where discovery happens.”
Vendelbo’s own wine journey began in 2015 and, like many in the industry, he started by tasting widely – often outside the classic regions due to budget constraints. “There are so many alternatives to the big-name wines, like German Spätburgunder instead of Burgundy, New Zealand Chardonnay, or field blends from lesser-known regions. These winemakers are forced to be creative, and that makes their wines fascinating – with more texture and more flavour exploration.”
This philosophy forms the backbone of Grimal’s offering: wines from lesser-known producers, chosen for quality and value. “With a short list, you have to be selective. We don't work with the biggest names. It has to be active and interactive, not just a collection – it’s a living document,” he explains. “Limiting ourselves to around 200 wines help[s] keeping it sharp.”
There’s no rigid rule about pairing the wine list to the food menu either. The kitchen at Grimal takes cues from both French bistro traditions and rustic English cooking – an underappreciated influence, according to Vendelbo. “England is often overlooked, but there’s so much interesting farm-to-table, hearty stuff, especially if you look at the 1980s and '90s. We do what we like – both in the kitchen and with the wines.”
Even with a short list, there’s breadth. “You can still choose between vintages, regions, and styles. And that keeps our regulars coming back. Older guests may need a bit more convincing to try something new, but once they do, they’re hooked.”
Copenhagen’s love affair with natural wine is still strong, but Vendelbo sees the scene becoming more inclusive: “It's less divided now. It's not about taking sides, it’s about what’s in the bottle.”
Looking ahead, he sees exciting horizons. “There’s still so much to explore. We’re now pouring a Rioja from 1995, and we want to build a deeper cellar with more old vintages. I also want to start working with low-intervention producers from Denmark – though it's still tough.”
He’s also keeping an eye on what’s next. “If climate trends continue, I believe we’ll see great Pinot Noir from Scandinavia in 10 to 20 years. Just look at how Germany evolved. Burgundy is moving north. I also believe in the Azores, and dry wines from Madeira – hidden gems.”
The recognition from Star Wine List has had a real impact. “Since we first won, people have found us through Star Wine List,” says sommelier Emilie Buestad Lohmann, part of the Grimal team. “It's such a useful tool – you can search for a specific wine and discover where to drink it. That flips the old way on its head. It connects people who care not only about eating well – but drinking well too.”
All the winners at the Star Wine List of the Year International Final.
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