Star Wine List launches in Vietnam with new ambassador Trân Thi Dung Trâm

By Rachel Fellows

Published 25-September-2024

Interview / Vietnam

As we launch our first guides to Vietnam, meet Star Wine List’s newest ambassador, Trân Thi Dung Trâm.

Trâm is a sommelier and wine educator with experience across Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi, where she is currently a sommelier and restaurant manager. She holds a plethora of awards, including Best Sommelier in Vietnam 2024, WSET Level 3 in both wine and sake, and ASI Certification 2.

“I was born in Hue,” says Trâm, “a beautiful central city in Vietnam that is famous for its cuisine and its people. My hometown and family fueled my passion for food and beverage when I was young.”

She became a sommelier in 2016 – “I fell in love with the job immediately” – and has pulled on her knowledge of the tight-knit sommelier community to award Red Stars to 10 of the restaurants and wine bars frequented by such wine professionals.

And whilst the sommelier community might still be small, the wine scene across the country has changed significantly in recent years. Trâm tells us more about it below.

In the meantime, discover our guides to Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

What’s the latest on the Vietnam wine scene?
“In the last five years, I have seen a huge change in the wine industry in Vietnam. Vietnam is not a wine country so, from the deepest roots of the culture, there is no wine on the table. But with the development of F&B concepts, the activity of the younger generation, and big investment into tourism, wine consumption is on the rise. This has led to more and more restaurants, wine bars, wine-focused events, wine trading and tasting experiences.

“In addition, the focus on learning about the wine profession and awareness of drinking wine has changed positively. Customers are willing to pay for wine courses and training to improve their understanding, and the frequency of meals with wine has increased.

“Finally, it is impossible not to mention the investment of importers, who are willing to expand and increasingly attract more wineries to Vietnam, leading to diverse choices and experiences for customers.

“Besides that, the diversity and uniqueness of Vietnamese food culture helps persuade guests to come and enjoy the mixture of Vietnamese food and wine pairings. Michelin and World’s 50 Best are finally settled in Vietnam, opening a lot of opportunities and attracting foreign visitors who love enjoying food and wine.”

Why are you excited about Star Wine List launching its guide to Vietnam?
“The Star Wine List is like the Michelin Guide for wine lovers – a list that is objectively evaluated and selected by industry experts. It recognises the efforts of sommeliers, restaurant and bar owners when bringing culinary and wine experiences to everyone.

“In the past, when I’ve had the opportunity to travel or work abroad, I’ve always looked for restaurants and bars with good wine lists and delicious food to experience; when I accidentally found out about the Star Wine List, it was like a great saviour to find the places I needed quickly and most effectively. So, when the Star Wine List came to Vietnam, I was really happy to have the opportunity to make the culinary and wine service industry more known to wine-loving tourists. At the same time, it is also a sign that the quality of F&B services in Vietnam has been growing and will grow even more in the future.”

Are there distinct cultural trends differentiating areas or cities across the country?
“Yes, there is a gap in terms of trends and customer behaviour in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. In general, Hanoi people tend to be private, traditional, old-school and loyal. Especially the older generation. But somehow, the younger generation is more active – they love to try new things.

“By contrast, the Saigonese are more open-minded, modern – they follow and update current trends. Therefore, there are many more social places to eat and drink in Ho Chi Minh City than in Hanoi.”

What are the main wine trends you've noticed recently?
“The rise of organic, biodynamic and natural wines with the globalised sense of environmental responsibility. And zero-alcohol wine jumped into the market due to government restrictions on alcohol consumption.”

What’s the secret to a good wine list?
“For me, it depends on a few main factors. The first thing is the concept and size of the venue, which affects the structure of the wine list.

“Secondly, the selection has to have balance and diversity – a mix of red, white, rosé, and sparkling wines; famous producers as well as lesser known; common grapes and alternative ones.

“And then there’s the sommelier’s personal touch: knowing availability across diverse distributors, considering pairings for special or seasonal menus.

“Of course, you also need to have a good layout – a well-organized wine list helps the staff to sell, to make suggestions to, and answer questions for, the customers.

“Finally, it is also important to balance quality and value depending on the venue's target customers and profitability.”