London’s Kathrine Larsen-Robert MS: sustainability isn’t a trend, it’s a mainstay
A year since Master Sommelier Kathrine Larsen-Robert became Star Wine List’s London Ambassador, she is updating our guide for the third time by adding five Red Stars – and offering some tips on how to enjoy the English capital in the spring.
Kathrine Larsen-Robert MS is currently Head of Wine, Europe at private members’ club 67 Pall Mall, in London’s St James’s. For the past year, the sommelier and wine consultant has reported for Star Wine List from her adopted home, where she has lived since 2007 after moving from her native Copenhagen.
Along the way, she has also found time to judge many of our Star Wine List of the Year awards, in Denmark, Belgium, France, Sweden, Florida, and our International Open.
As she adds five new Red Star recommendations to the Star Wine List guide to drinking well in London, we asked Kathrine why she chose these particular venues, how others can hope to impress her, and what visitors to the city should be doing now that the London weather’s showing signs of perking up…
Kathrine’s new Red Stars in London
“I chose them for different reasons but they’re all places that are doing super well in their own ways, in very different parts of the city.”
1. Da Terra
“Innovative, Brazilian- and Italian-inspired tasting menus that showcase seasonal British produce; heartfelt personality in an intimate setting.”
2. Gold, Notting Hill
“Vibrant neighbourhood restaurant; produce-led, Mediterranean-inspired menu.”
3. KOL
“Masterful blend of modern Mexican cuisine with seasonal British ingredients, served in a beautifully designed space.”
4. Restaurant 1890 by Gordon Ramsay
“Refined, modern French cuisine and a luxurious experience inspired by Escoffier’s legacy but with contemporary flair.”
5. Sabor
“Authentic regional Spanish cuisine in a vibrant setting in central London.”
How would you describe the wine scene across London's restaurants and wine bars at the moment?
“The London wine scene is vibrant, innovative, and incredibly inclusive, catering to all tastes – whether you’re a lover of classic wines or eager to explore new styles.
“There’s a strong focus on sustainability, with an emphasis on wines from environmentally conscious producers. This trend (not really a trend, rather a mainstay and, increasingly, a non-negotiable) aligns with a growing consumer demand for authenticity and transparency.
“The use of Coravin systems has become increasingly popular, allowing venues to offer high-end wines by the glass, which gives guests the unique opportunity to sample rare and prestigious bottles without committing to a full purchase, making fine wine more accessible. With the cost-of-living crisis impacting consumers, I think many establishments are curating wine lists that provide excellent value across various price points while maintaining a sense of exclusivity and quality.
“Overall, there’s an emphasis on making wine fun and approachable, moving away from the formal and exclusive image of the past. Collaborations between chefs, sommeliers, and winemakers are also increasingly popular, leading to creative events, pop-ups, and limited-edition wine lists, thus offering the consumer unique and memorable experiences.
“Also, there’s increasingly a market for lower alcohol wine, by lower I mean pretty much everything from 13.5% and down.”
How can a wine bar or restaurant impress you?
“A restaurant or wine bar can impress me by embracing its unique approach and doing things its own way with confidence – creating an experience that pushes you out of your comfort zone. I find a short, super well-curated wine list – frequently updated with confidence and care – very impressive.”
What's your one pet hate on wine lists or wine service?
“Serving wine by the glass that is not in optimal condition, such as flat Champagne or oxidised white or red wine. Additionally, not serving wine at the correct temperature.”
Do you have any personal favourites amongst your new Red Stars?
“Impossible to choose a favourite – they’re all unique and special in their own way. But KOL has a special place in my heart – the food is simply outstanding, with vibrant, bold flavours that perfectly capture the essence of Mexican cuisine while showcasing top-quality, seasonal British ingredients. And the interiors are thoughtfully designed with beautiful colours and natural materials that create a warm, inviting atmosphere. If you haven’t been yet, I highly recommend it – you’re in for a treat!”
What's London like going into the spring for wining and dining? Any hot tips for places people should visit, or find a spot?
“Places with outdoor space; favourites of mine include The River Cafe and Rochelle Canteen, or the plant-filled courtyard at Gold, Notting Hill. Or find a good spot in one of the parks or along the Thames – all are buzzing with people when the weather is good.”
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