Le Chat Noir's Takeshi Okajo: winning at Star Wine List of the Year Japan “motivated me to keep improving”

Takeshi Okajo, owner and sommelier of Le Chat Noir. Photo courtesy of Takeshi Okajo.
Rachel Fellows
Published 21-May-2025
Interview

This year saw Star Wine List’s first wine list competition in Japan, with the biggest prize of all going to Osaka wine bar Le Chat Noir. Here, we meet the man behind the wine selections.

Le Chat Noir, in Osaka’s lively Higashi-Shinsaibashi neighbourhood, won the Gold Star for Best Short List and, subsequently, the Grand Prix, at the Star Wine List of the Year Japan 2025 – our first celebration of the country’s wine lists. Judge Paz Levinson said that the larger prize was “not merely for the accumulation of bottles, but for the team’s wise interpretation of the wine world.”

That interpretation comes from owner and sommelier Takeshi Okajo, who opened Le Chat Noir in September 2011 and says that “I simply curate wines I currently find delicious, considering a balance of style and price.”

He adds, “I hope to study more outstanding lists from around the world to improve mine in the future.”

We asked him a little more about his wine philosophy.

Takeshi Okajo accepts the Grand Prix award at Star Wine List of the Year Japan 2025. Pictured with judges Reeze Choi and Toru Takamatsu MS to his left, and Star Wine List’s Krister Bengtsson (far right). Photo courtesy of ProWine Tokyo.

How did it feel to win two Gold Stars at Star Wine List of the Year Japan 2025?

“It was a complete surprise – like a bolt from the blue. I never expected it, so it was a delightful and humbling piece of news. At the same time, it motivated me to keep improving.”

What can visitors expect from Le Chat Noir?

“Le Chat Noir is a versatile space where guests can enjoy a pre-dinner aperitif, a full dinner paired with wine, or unwind after a meal with a cocktail or a glass of brandy. The experience is entirely up to the guest.”

What do you think is the secret to crafting a short wine list?

“The key is to select wines from around the world with a well-thought-out balance of style and price, without being limited to one specific region. Personally, studying for the WSET Diploma really helped broaden my perspective.”

What are the challenges of creating a short wine list?

“I still feel there’s room for improvement in terms of structure and presentation. I want to make the list more thoughtfully organised and better designed.”

Did any other wine bars or restaurants serve as inspiration for Le Chat Noir?

“I recently visited Noble Rot in London and was truly impressed. It has become a source of inspiration for me going forward.”

Takeshi Okajo, owner and sommelier of Le Chat Noir. Photo courtesy of Takeshi Okajo.

What is your personal wine experience?

“I started working in the hospitality industry at the age of 16 and began training as a bartender in Higashi-Shinsaibashi when I was 19. At 23, I moved to France for two years to study wine and service. I earned my JSA Senior Sommelier and CCA Cigar Manager qualifications at 29, and at 45, I obtained the WSET Level 4 Diploma in Wines in the UK. Today, I stand behind the counter at my French bar, Le Chat Noir, always striving to create a welcoming and comfortable space for guests while continuing to deepen my knowledge and skills.”

What is the wine philosophy behind Le Chat Noir?

“I am drawn to wines made from carefully-grown grapes and crafted with great attention to detail. Since our bar is small, quiet, and intimate, I believe wines with finesse truly shine in this environment. On the other hand, in livelier, more open spaces, I feel that more generous, natural-style wines tend to flourish.”

What do you think makes a good wine list?

“A good wine list offers wines that taste delicious in that specific environment – taking into account the climate, humidity, atmosphere, and sounds – while also providing a range of options to suit different guests’ preferences.”

What is your favourite wine region and why?

“Right now, I’m particularly interested in the Loire Valley in France. Compared to the past, there is now a broader range of character and quality. Every time I discover a new, excellent producer, it’s an exciting experience.”

Le Chat Noir is now a finalist in the Star Wine List of the Year International Final – winners will be revealed at an awards ceremony in Vienna, on 16 June 2025.

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