Avondale from the Cape Floral Kingdom

Johnathan Grieve. Photo courtesy of Avondale.

He creates wines from ancient soils of the Cape Floral Kingdom and was the first winemaker in South Africa to work according to biodynamic principles. Now, winemaker Johnathan Grieve from Avondale is coming to Sweden, bringing wines that place Mother Earth at the centre, guided by a philosophy of patience.

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Avondale is located in a magical valley in Paarl, where wine has been cultivated for over 300 years. It’s a place surrounded by mountains that contribute crystal-clear water and create a variety of valleys and slopes with around 30 different soil types. Johnathan explains that just here, in one of the world’s most biodiverse regions, there are over 8,000 different plants. This has given the region the name ‘Cape Floral Kingdom’ and UNESCO World Heritage status.

"You can understand why it's an incredible place for a winemaker," says Johnathan when we meet online for a tasting and chat ahead of his upcoming visit to Sweden.

The Cape Floral Kingdom has a Mediterranean climate, influenced by the warm Indian Ocean and the cold winds from the Atlantic. The combination of sunlight hours and ancient soils contributes to the expression of the wines.

"Thanks to its diverse nature, South Africa doesn’t have just one wine style but many, which is both our strength and our weakness. Here, we get a perfect combination of what is characteristic of both the New and Old Worlds. We have the sun, which gives a lot of fruit, but also ancient soil, which provides structure and concentration to the wine."

To take advantage of the varying conditions of the different vineyards, and to let the terroir permeate the wines, each vineyard site is harvested and vinified separately before being blended, striving not to mask the fruit.

"We want to create wines that are distinctive to us, and we believe that unique character is lost if you use commercial yeast, heavy extraction, and a lot of oak. What makes our wine different from someone else’s? We want to reflect where the wine comes from and what nature gives".

From Industry to Philosophy

Despite Avondale being a larger vineyard with 300 hectares of land, 70 of which are vineyards, all work is done with respect for nature and according to biodynamic principles. Livestock and ducks assist in the work, and Johnathan believes that all creatures moving in the vineyard contribute to its energy. But when Johnathan dropped out of his Fine Art studies and began working on the farm that his parents had owned since 1996, it looked different. The farming was conventional, and Johnathan first learned to make wine that way; the land was in poor condition, and the grapes were sold to nearby wineries.

Ducks on patrol. Photo courtesy of Avondale.

"When I started observing the land, I could see that it was a dead farm. At first glance, it was beautiful, but it had no life. So, we began a slow transition to more holistic farming, focusing on bringing life back to the soil and creating a living system."

The first wine under the Avondale name was made in 1999. The following year, a fire ravaged large parts of the land but also provided an opportunity for change. In 2003, Avondale became organically certified and, since 2005, Johnathan has practiced biodynamic farming - "long before it became cool," as he puts it.

"It’s not about having a sticker on the bottle. I think it’s important because many engage in greenwashing, even in the wine industry. But for us, it’s about creating beautiful wines, and we do that by working biodynamically."

All fermentation occurs spontaneously with the yeast present in the environment, and Johnathan believes this contributes to the wines’ body, texture, flavor, elegance, mouthfeel, and complexity, as well as creating a unique style. Time is an important part of Avondale's winemaking, and the team works slowly, both in the vineyard and by allowing the wines to age before release.

Fruit-Driven Wines with Structure

Common to the wines from the South African winemaker are fruit and structure. Among Avondale’s various wines, you’ll find ‘Anima,’ which means ‘soul’ in Latin. A wine made from 100% Chenin Blanc with yellow fruit, gooseberries, and honey on the palate, a full mouthfeel, and a rich structure paired with high, fresh acidity and minerality. A wine made for restaurant menus.

"It’s light but has an integrated balance with many layers and textures. Every time you return to the wine, there’s something new to discover, says Johnathan," and I agree.

The wine is made from grapes from 35-year-old vines, hand-harvested in the morning when cool winds sweep over the vineyard. The grapes are then gently pressed in whole bunches. 20% is made as an orange wine, fermenting with its skins in amphorae from Georgia, while part of it is aged in 500-litre old French oak barrels. The wine is not filtered and rests on its lees for two years before release.

‘Jonty’s Ducks Pekin Red,’ a blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot, has the structure of Bordeaux and the fruit of South Africa. ‘Avondale Qvevri’ is a blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre, made with carbonic maceration and recommended to be served slightly chilled, like a Beaujolais. It’s fresh while having small, gritty tannins. ‘Samsara’ clarifies Johnathan's thoughts on South Africa and how the country showcases a combination of the New and Old Worlds, where the sun gives plenty of fruit, and the ancient soils provide structure and concentration. Something Johnathan believes is significant for his wines.

A Family Estate with People in Focus

Avondale combines natural methods with advanced science and technology. But the most important asset in the vineyard is, after all, the people. Avondale is a family estate where Johnathan, his wife and their three children live together with 25 other families who work on the farm. For Johnathan, the concept of sustainability extends far beyond how the land is cultivated - it’s just as much about caring for the people who live and work at Avondale.

"I always put people first. We are a family estate, and it’s not just my family living here. We support the other families living with us by providing basic educational opportunities and ensuring that the children attend better schools."

When I ask Johnathan if he thinks his own children will follow in his footsteps, he shares a memory of when the family was having their usual Sunday breakfast together in bed, and his daughter started a several-hour-long conversation about how mushrooms grow. He thought it gave good hope that Avondale will continue to develop over generations, with Mother Earth as the greatest inspiration.