Gezellig

Gezellig is permanently closed.

Gezellig is Dutch word to describe an atmosphere that encourages good times - and that's what the three owners (one of whom is actually Dutch), and all friends from the industry, are going for with their new wine focused restaurant and bar. It's in Holborn, which is basically a very unromantic thoroughfare, but what the area lacks in charm, it makes up for in convenience: it's sort of near everywhere. There's a local grandeur to the space, double height ceilings in the smart brasserie-style restaurant which is overlooked by a mezzanine wine lounge and there's a slick main bar at the front. You can get a very competent cocktail but it's clear wine is their passion.

The chef has a Michelin starred pedigree which is reflected in Modern European menu, however you are just as encouraged to sip, swig, sink and snack (perhaps on one of the Chesterfields upstairs) as you are to have the traditional three courses and a table.

By Ruth Spivey

The wine list has around 300 bottles and very successfully covers all the classic regions, with German Rieslings, Loire whites, Italian reds and Burgundy taking centre stage. That said, Sparkling and New World benchmarks are well served and nothing is glaringly absent. They describe it a 'list of loves' and as such it's keenly priced with some canny bargains and a fair few older vintages for the eagle-eyed.